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72g Bowfront Fowlr

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by iadubber, Dec 15, 2011.

  1. iadubber

    iadubber Well-Known ReefKeeper

    376
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    +0 / 0 / -0
    Well, I'm here, I'm an Iowan and I want to get into marine fish. I want to start with a FOWLR in my 72 gallon bowfront.
       The more I read the more confused I get on sump setups, if I need one, etc. I don't like HOB items. I had a Marineland emperor 400 HOB filter and I hated it. I like to have the tank as close to the wall as possible so I replaced it with a FluVal 405 and bought and inline Hydor heater for it. I like how clean it looks now. I'd like to keep it that way if I can when switching to FOWLR.
       I have read so many conflicting things as in a sump isn't necessary if you can live with a HOB skimmer and at least 3 power heads. True? Untrue? 
       I've never drilled glass before and I'm a bit touchy about the though of it. Are there other options for overflows that don't require drilling the glass that are flood safe?
    Here's a pic as it sits now. I am picking up a 55 gallon with stand Saturday from ThyRaven to rehome these fish in.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/chadharwick/6490404861
      So I guess my initial questions are above. I am somewhat on a budget for this so I'd love recommendations on
    HOB Skimmers that are quiet and can also be used in a sump if I go that route
    PowerHeads
    If I go with a 20g long sump, what return pump and options for overflow setups that are flood resistant in case of power outage?
      Sorry for all the questions, just don't know where to start even after researching for 2 weeks straight.
     
  2. Bud Loves Bacon Website Team Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member Vendor

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +1,821 / 14 / -0
    As far as sump vs no sump, a sump give you flexibility to select or add various forms of filtration and helps you maintain a constant water level in the display tank, as well as adding water volume which adds stability. As far as flood protection goes, there really is only one that I consider to be close to failsafe and that's the BeanAnimal system http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx which has an extremely long thread on RC.

    As far as filter systems, you can go many routes there. I prefer the Algae Scrubber http://www.algaescrubber.net/forums/ and I run a thread on RC on this as well http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1977420 (see posts 2001-2010 for a summary)

    That reading should keep you busy for a few more weeks...sorry...
     
  3. iadubber

    iadubber Well-Known ReefKeeper

    376
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    Thanks Turbo! I have decided on a few things today
    1. I will do a sump (whether a premade acrylic or 20g diy is up in the air)
    2. I plan to do a glass-holes 700gph overflow kit
    3. Submersed Mag-Drive 9.5 with a ball valve to control output
    4. Two Korilia 750s to start
    5. Unknown skimmer at this time. Try to find one here used preferably after I get a sump to make sure the skimmer will fit
    6. A cheap T5 solution http://www.aquatraders.com/48-inch-4x54W-T5-Aquarium-Light-Fixture-p/52305.htm unless a used one is found here
    7. unsure on heater yet
    8. Ebay Refractometer
    9. Paint the back glass black
    10. Pump return http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+10090+14680&pcatid=14680
    Is there a better solution to return plumbing? Two outlets?
    11. RO/DI unit from ebay or amazon with two 32 gallon brute trashcans for holding tanks.
    12. Substrate: Not sure yet. Planned on pool filter sand but have been reading that will not be the best solution. 
    13. I won't be able to afford to fill this thing with cured live rock. Is there a good ratio of dry and live that will get me the best results?
     
  4. Bennyboy515

    Bennyboy515

    77
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    you can use a lockline y if you want and spit you flow two different ways. If i were you i would buy a device triangular in shape sorry can't think of the name but will find out it is 40 dollars. Your return pump runs into it and from there one line comes off each side. It is a switch that runs off water, making it go from one return to the other every 7 seconds, acting as a wave maker!
     
  5. iadubber

    iadubber Well-Known ReefKeeper

    376
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    thanks Benny, I'll definitely get the lockline. I'll have to hit you up for how to get it to look good entering the tank when the time comes. This build is going to have to be about 6 months for me to get everything I want unless I get some smoking deals here! It'll start slowly next weekend. I've got a girl #2 on the way March 1st so that's going to take some funding away for sure. I like that current switcher you pm'd me about. I think that'll work pretty slick.
     
  6. Sponge Expert Reefkeeper Vendor

    Marshalltown, IA
    Ratings:
    +233 / 1 / -0
    Check this out for an overflow box...I use one on my 135g

    http://www.lifereef.com/siphon.html
     
  7. iadubber

    iadubber Well-Known ReefKeeper

    376
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    Looks nice, but I don't want anything HOB or siphon.
     
  8. iadubber

    iadubber Well-Known ReefKeeper

    376
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    Just ordered Glass-Holes overflow and return kit and got my membership here!
     
  9. iadubber

    iadubber Well-Known ReefKeeper

    376
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    I'm getting my 700 gph glass holes overflow and return kit tomorrow in the mail. So I will probably be drilling the tank this weekend. I ordered the 3/4" loc-line return kit. I wanted to put the overflow box on the back left. I was wondering what my best option is for the return line. An obvious spot would be the right side, but what if I ever wanted to add another 700 gph overflow?

    Should I put the return in the middle of the tank and then I have the option to use a Y loc-line fitting to make two outputs? Or should I just stick with make the return on the right side of the tank? thanks
     
  10. iadubber

    iadubber Well-Known ReefKeeper

    376
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    Well since nobody wanted to chime in I just put them where I wanted.
    Finished drilling it today:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  11. iadubber

    iadubber Well-Known ReefKeeper

    376
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    I picked up two powerheads, 20 gallon long for my sump, and some rock.

    Also ordered 40lbs of sand and 50 pounds of rock from reefrocks.net.

    Last order of the day was for a CadLights TIA-1150 2nd Generation Conic skimmer
     
  12. blackx-runner Administrator Website Team Leadership Team

    Cedar Rapids, IA
    Ratings:
    +738 / 5 / -0
    looks like you're moving right along on the build. Good luck and keep us updated.
     
  13. iadubber

    iadubber Well-Known ReefKeeper

    376
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    I'm looking for some sump advice.

    Here's my basic drawing. I am waiting to see what the proper depth for my skimmer is yet. I can't seem to find it on the internet so I'm waiting for Cadlights sales to get back to me. For temporary sake, I used 9" for skimmer depth.

    My main question I can't seem to find a solid answer on is how deep to make the return pump chamber. I read about making sure you have 24-48 hours of depth for evaporation. Is 7" too deep? Too shallow? Can I fab a top to reduce evaporation that covers the right 3/4 of the sump? At this time I don't plan to do a fuge.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. iadubber

    iadubber Well-Known ReefKeeper

    376
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    Ok I have a new drawing.

    [​IMG]

    I got the skimmer specs and it's operational depth is 8". So I'm thinking of making the chamber 10" and make a 2" riser. 1" between bubble trap baffles and 8" deep return section. That leaves me about 8 gallons of overflow return if the power goes out. Should I make the return section baffle deeper? I only want to do this once. The piece of acrylic is $40 and I'd rather not waste redoing.
     
  15. blackx-runner Administrator Website Team Leadership Team

    Cedar Rapids, IA
    Ratings:
    +738 / 5 / -0
    looks good. Just make sure you have plenty of room for the skimmer and the drain line(s) in the first chamber. Is this all going in the stand? If so you also need to be sure you have enough height in the stand to accommodate the 2" riser for your skimmer and still get the collection cup off easily.
    Have you considered a refugium at all? Something else you may want to consider before making things permanent.
     
  16. iadubber

    iadubber Well-Known ReefKeeper

    376
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    I definitely won't silicone until I get my skimmer in.
    Yes it's going in a stand. The skimmer is 19" tall and I have about 25" under my stand. The skimmer needs 1" of clearance for cup removal so I should be good. I will be plumbing a T fitting off the return pump with a pipe that goes back to the skimmer chamber to help divert too much flow.
    No fuge for me right now.
    I got all my baffles cut today. I leak tested the 20 long and it holds water. So hopefully I can find a return pump by next week and get some water going in the tank.
     
  17. iadubber

    iadubber Well-Known ReefKeeper

    376
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    Today ordered the following
    2 Jager trutemp 150w heaters
    2 magfloats
    1 API Master Saltwater Test kit
    1 Quiet One 3000 return pump
    1 gravel vac
    Also picked up all my plumbing supplies. The sump is ready to be siliconed. I water tested it lastnight.
    Should be up and running next week if I can get a ro/di unit soon!
     
  18. iaJim

    iaJim Inactive User

    775
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    I'd cancel the gravel van if you still can. It's not such a good idea to disturb the substrate in a marine aquarium.
     
  19. iaJim

    iaJim Inactive User

    775
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    *vac*
     
  20. iadubber

    iadubber Well-Known ReefKeeper

    376
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    +0 / 0 / -0
    Vac will be used on my freshwater
     

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