1. Do you have an old account but can't access it?


    See Accessing your GIRS Account or Contact Us - We are here to help!

Advice: Glass Lids for Sump

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by PotRoast, Mar 29, 2012.

  1. PotRoast

    PotRoast Well-Known ReefKeeper

    999
    Ratings:
    +24 / 0 / -0
    I have acrylic lids on my sump that I built myself. They are warped from all the moisture and I am considering replacing them with glass lids.
    I have a sketch of what I want to do....it involves basically drilling a lot of holes  and making a few cutouts.
    I thought a glass company could do this on the cheap but I got a quote for $220.00 for each lid. So that is out of the question.
    Does anyone know how I can get this done for much much cheaper?
    [​IMG] 
     
  2. nrenn Well-Known ReefKeeper

    311
    Waverly, Iowa
    Ratings:
    +29 / 0 / -0
    Is this to cut down evaporation? In cases where lighting isn't an issue, I have heard of people thowing in a bunch of ping pong balls (or something else that floats) to cut down on the air/water surface area
     
  3. PotRoast

    PotRoast Well-Known ReefKeeper

    999
    Ratings:
    +24 / 0 / -0
    ^Interesting, but I'm not doing that.

    And yes you are correct it is to cut down on evaporation. The holes are all for reactor hoses, pipes, floats, etc.

    I have this exact setup currently only using thin acrylic that bends. I may just go with 1/2" and see what happens.
     
  4. AJ

    AJ Inactive User

    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    Jim, you may want to consider making the glass multiple pieces in case you need to get into your sump for maint. You can use some of the hinge material that you can buy at the pet store and just make it a hinged lid for the center section.

    Another consideration may be to make a fewer number of large holes and putting multiple tubes into the same hole. (possibly consolidating reactor drain lines into a single line, etc) It will still cut down on evaporation as you can fill in the gaps with something like bubble wrap or something like that, but it makes your lid less specific to your current configuration vs. making it more extensible for future reconfigurations.

    --AJ
     
  5. Waverz

    Waverz Expert Reefkeeper

    Ratings:
    +5 / 0 / -0
    Here's an idea, the acrylic is bowing right? How about getting some strips of glass cut say about 2-3" wide and 16-3/8" long, place them in across the top of your sump and put the acrylic lids on the glass supports. That should eep them from sagging. You could even silicone the glass to the acrylic to add rigidity.

    Just an idea.
     
  6. nrenn Well-Known ReefKeeper

    311
    Waverly, Iowa
    Ratings:
    +29 / 0 / -0
    Or put gussets of acrylic on the existing pieces. Fast and easy, and plenty strong
     
  7. Waverz

    Waverz Expert Reefkeeper

    Ratings:
    +5 / 0 / -0
    Or that.
     
  8. Kpotter2 Expert Reefkeeper

    North liberty, IA
    Ratings:
    +7 / 0 / -0
    Jim the Plexi glass is doing this because Plexi will absorb some moisture on the side that is exposed to. I would just use it again and just add some reinforcement cross pieces to them on there edges. I was going to show you with real plexi, but hope this will work. Here is an example:
    [​IMG]
     
  9. danmgray Well-Known ReefKeeper

    307
    Sioux City, IA
    Ratings:
    +26 / 0 / -0
    Some types of acrylic will absorb more moisture than others. I think Bud presented some absorbtion values during his presentation last week. I remember that cell cast absorbed less moisture than exturded and some brands perform better than others. Very good presentation, btw.

    The lids that came with my tank (ATM) don't warp much, if at all. I made my own with cutouts out of extruded acrylic from Menards, and it bowed within hours.

    With the right brand of acrylic, you may not have any issues.
     
  10. Bud Loves Bacon Website Team Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member Vendor

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +1,821 / 14 / -0
    most plastic lids for stock tanks are polycarbonate which doesn't warp nearly as bad but has less ideal light transmission properties and it's not easy to work with.

    the WO16 would probably work, getting the edges of the gussets straight could easily be done with a jointer, but the hard part is getting the warped lid straight to bond it down. even a ton of weight won't completely unwarp it. Plus acrylic warps on multiple planes (up on all corners, like a bowl) so you would likely need crossing gussets, but what is shown above would get you a long way
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.