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Help!! Algae, algae and more algae

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Mike, Jul 25, 2017.

  1. Mike

    132
    Urbandale, IA
    Ratings:
    +9 / 0 / -0
    Ok everybody - I need some help here. I am about 1/2 done quarantining my fish in an attempt to starve out parasites since we had a few fish die.

    Over the last few weeks, I have started to see algae outbreaks of various kinds in my tank.

    So first, I need some help identifying a few of these algae types.

    Here is the first one:

    20170721_164920.jpg


    I took a video of it too because sometimes it can be tough to see in pictures:



    So the obvious question - what is that? It looks kind of like dino, but I don't see any of the bubbles that I would expect to see with dino? Or is it cyano? Red Turf Algae? Diatoms maybe?

    Here is another picture of it growing on a rock (and I do see some bubbles on this rock as well):


    20170725_160113.jpg


    Then there is this stuff growing in my overflow:


    20170722_123630.jpg


    The overflow is the only place I am really seeing the picture above.

    I am also getting a lot of an algae like film growing on the glass as well. I am having to scrape it off about every 3 days:


    20170722_124135.jpg


    And finally, I have recently started to notice this film floating in my sump. I have never seen anything like this before (notice the fine layer of something on the surface):


    20170725_160622.jpg


    We haven't been doing much feeding at all in the tank the last 6+ weeks because the fish are out of the tank during quarantine. My wife does feed the coral, but only once or twice a week. So it shouldn't be an over feeding issue.

    We have a decent number of snails in the tank, and a handful of emerald and hermit crabs. Perhaps we need more?

    I am running both GFO and Carbon in the tank. And I am also running a UV Sterilizer in the tank (although I don't think that would make a difference here). And I have a skimmer that is running as well.

    My salinity last I checked was right around 1.024 (a little low I know). And the temperature is definitely higher than it should be (between 80-82 degrees). I have a chiller but it keeps blowing my fuse so I need to figure something out there.

    Nitrite and Ammonia levels are near 0. Nitrate is at 3ppm. Alkalinity is a little low at 6dkh and calcium is a little low at 380ppm. Phosphates are showing 0ppm, but I have been told that test is basically useless since algae can absorb the phosphates.

    High TDS perhaps contributing to the problem in by RODI water? I noticed they got a bit high when my RODI filters needed changing. That has since been corrected, but perhaps the TDS of the RODI water in the ATO before I changed the filters is contributing to this?

    When we had the fish in the tank, we were doing about a 20% water change each week. Since there aren't fish in there anymore, I haven't done a water change in a few weeks. But I did notice these problems starting to happen even before we took this fish out?

    I would like to try to fix the problem before we put the fish back in the tank in a few weeks but am not sure where to start, or even how to identify what these algaes are for sure!

    I would like any feedback that anybody has!!!!
     
  2. blackx-runner Administrator Website Team Leadership Team

    Cedar Rapids, IA
    Ratings:
    +738 / 5 / -0
    How old is the tank? What kind of lighting, and how old are the bulbs if T5 or halide?

    Top picture looks like a cyano to me, but I am far from an expert. Flow can be attributed to that stuff sticking around. A dead spot or spot with weak flow where "crud" collects can feed that stuff. I would say with all the algae growth you definitely are fighting excess nutrients. I would up the water changes, siphon as much of the algae as possible. Blow out the rocks and get any excess crap out from there and sucked out of the tank. Maybe add some additional flow, or move powerheads around if you have some dead spots.
    Do you have any fish or CUC to get into your sandbed and turn it over and keep it cleaned out?
    As far as the film in your sump I would say you need something to move and turn the water over in that section. Just a little bit of surface movement should break the surface tension and allow that film to move through the sump and hopefully into your skimmer.
     
  3. Mike

    132
    Urbandale, IA
    Ratings:
    +9 / 0 / -0
    The tank is not too old. About 3 months. It was an upgrade from a 65 gallon tank. So the tank and sand are new. But we used the same rock, sump and some of the same water that was in the 65 gallon when we upgraded.

    I definitely agree that there are excess nutrients, but my question is what could be feeding it? With no fish in the tank, we feed the coral very little. What else could potentially be causing the growth?

    For lights, I have three AI Hydra 26 LEDs. The are set to run most of the day. They start their ramp up at 8am and gradually start ramping down at 5pm:



    Untitled-2.jpg


    I do have a small CUC. Some nassarius snails and a couple of fighting conchs (although for some reason they seem to not live too long). Oh and a sand sifting star fish. And some crabs but they don't really seem to turn up the sand bed much. I do have a sand sifting gobi, however all the fish are out of the tank right now for about 6 more weeks. You think more flow? I have 3 power heads in there already but perhaps a need a couple more. There is quite a bit of flow in there, but maybe that spot isn't getting hit well?
     
  4. AdamLawrence Well-Known ReefKeeper

    542
    Marion, IA
    Ratings:
    +171 / 0 / -0
    I would second the cyano to me to. I would do as @black-runner stated. Just keep doing mantanice as bad as it may sound and looks you just have to let it run its course it will go away on its own. When doing warter changes you can suck it out to. But it may come right back you can use chemiclean i think that's what its called but i wouldn't spend money on it is just a quick fix and still may come back.

    Sent from my SM-N920V via App
     
  5. Peter

    Peter

    23
    Ratings:
    +4 / 0 / -0
    Have you thought about an Algae scrubber? 302 aquatics makes a good one and deliver fast.

    He's actually sponsoring a contest on Central Iowa Reef Society now on Facebook here's a link to the group

    Log into Facebook | Facebook

    It's really active if you post there you might get more response also. Ive been seeing this forum kinda slipping this past year or so. Hope it makes a comeback one day
     
  6. Deleted member 1172

    Deleted member 1172 Guest

    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    Definitely growing pains. Maintain good habits like weekly 10% water changes, siphon the gravel, clean equipment regularly, don't overfeed. Don't rush the process, this stuff is going to pop up. Tanks have to be ugly to get beautiful, no reef is ever pretty right away. Take it slow and add additions as the tank adjusts.
     
  7. Foo

    Foo Well-Known ReefKeeper

    524
    Ratings:
    +4 / 0 / -0
    Dripping kalk can help because it precipitates phosphates. Use it for all top-off water, but drip it slowly over a 24 period. Never add all at once. I would also increase the flow if you can, and change your gfo out more often then not. Your rock looks fairly new, so it is likely its leaching phosphates. I've always used a skimmer rated way larger for the tanks that I've had also. Is your skimmer producing skimmate, dark or light colored?
     
  8. Foo

    Foo Well-Known ReefKeeper

    524
    Ratings:
    +4 / 0 / -0
  9. Bud Loves Bacon Website Team Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member Vendor

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +1,818 / 14 / -0
    Most of these algaes occur as a natural part of the maturing phase of just about any reef tank, so don't pull your hair out chasing issues. Read #15 here: Mything the Point, Part Three: Conclusion - Reefkeeping.com

    Definitely cyano

    Cyano and possibly some dinoflaggelates, but likely only cyano

    Some GHA and coralline - completely normal in an area of high flow and light

    Yup, you'll get that! Some have to scrape it off 2-3x/week, some don't ever have to. Best thing to use if you have glass is the Algae Free magnetic cleaners like this one Piranha Float Plus - Algae Free and now I see these come with a blade attachment built in, which means I now have to buy several more (you use to have to glue a scraper attachment on to it). The razor scraper will keep your glass clear several days longer than just a standard mag-float type glass cleaner

    FYI I also make Algae Scrubbers: Turbo's Aquatics - Home I just pulled down my sponsor sub-forum here a while back and I've been too busy to go back and make the changes I needed to make and put it back up....
     
  10. Mike

    132
    Urbandale, IA
    Ratings:
    +9 / 0 / -0
    Hey Bud. Great info! Thanks so much!

    I have a few questions for you. My wife is suggesting we use Chemi-clean on the tank before we put the fish bank in (still have 6 more weeks to go before we can do that). Any thoughts on if this is beneficial or not?

    Second - I don't know much about algae scrubbers. Obviously they grow algae. Am I understanding the concept correctly in that you grow the algae in the scrubber it will prevent the algae from growing elsewhere in the tank? What if I have chaeto growing in a refugium? Would that not work well together?

    I see you have a few different kinds of the algae scrubber. What would you recommend for a 125 gallon tank with a 39 gallon sump?
     
  11. Bud Loves Bacon Website Team Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member Vendor

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +1,818 / 14 / -0
    Never used it myself, heard mostly good things though, except that it can suck out the O2 I think, so you would want to aerate (but I don't think you are supposed to skim)

    To me, it's a band aid. Does t necessarily solve the root of the issue, and I don't think your outbreak is bad enough to need to. A little cyano isn't the end of the world. It usually burns itself out

    You basically have the idea of the scrubber correct, you make an ideal home for algae and it out-competes other algae. Some think there is a "chemical warfare" aspect to this, meaning, you can have elevated nutrients and an algae scrubber will still prevent other algae from growing outside of the scrubber. However this is just observational, not many experiments or studies to prove anything. And it's not necessarily consistent, because everyone's tank is unique at some level

    The primary factor is feeding rate, so you would start there. But roughly based on tank size, an L2 + other filtration would be decent, an L4 would be more "primary". My website is getting a major facelift soon, which will help with questions like this...

    You can run chaeto/macro + a scrubber, but the scrubber will usually beat out the other macros over time.
     
  12. Mike

    132
    Urbandale, IA
    Ratings:
    +9 / 0 / -0
    I didn't see this by quickly glancing at your website - what is the price of the L2 unit? And what kind of availability do you have with it?
     
  13. Yes, Bud is correct, Cyano for sure, and your tank is still in its infancy. You are still establishing your beneficial bacteria. No big deal.

    Sump scum is protein... might want to look at your skimmer and make sure its not running too dry, or undersized.

    There are a lot of ways to deal with algae, and everyone has their preference, just like different people prefer different ice cream flavors. So you'll have to find what works for you and matches your budget and your preferred maintenance routine.

    Me personally, I run zeovit... BRS has a few introductory videos about zeovit which are helpful if you're interested, but here are the basics if you are interested:
    1. Buy zeolyte rocks and put them in a bucket with tiny holes drilled in the bottom, and drop it in your sump with water running over it. Stir the rocks with your hand twice per day aggressively to knock all the bacteria and gunk off of them. Let the cloudy water from the rocks feed your corals. Every month change your zeolyte. You can recycle and reuse your zeolyte if you bake it in the oven.
    2. Add zeobak, zeostart, and zeofood as recommended. Test as recommended for zero ammonia.
    3. Run a good skimmer. Ditch your UV as it hurts your beneficial bacteria.
    4. I'd also add kelkwasser to bring up your alkalinity to 8.3.

    Algae problem, gone.
     

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