Almost got my overflow going :)

Are you using an external overflow? If so, I would encourage you to consider drilling your tank and building an internal overflow before you fill it with water.
The only constant with external overflows is that they fail, in which case your wife will be beat you for flooding the floor with saltwater.
-JB

 

JB, i hate it when people even mention that.....i probably won't sleep at night now.

Sure do wish i had a reef ready tank....

 

If I was you, I'd keep the water level in my sump as low as possible. If your overflow fails, all of the water from your sump is going to get pumped into your display tank and it won't have anywhere to go but over the sides... /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/sad.gif

-JB

 

Geesh who would of thought JB could be such a Debbie Downer... Guy comes on here excited that he is nearly ready to get his feet wet in the hobby (pun intended) and good ole JB has to ***** slap him back to reality... (Please re-read with heavy sarcasm as intended)

I agree that HOB overflows are a pain. JB also forgot to mention that if the big Uh Oh occurs you also risk losing a pump due to it running dry. The only way around this is to drill your tank, which could still have a snail clog the drain line, or safeguard your system. A reverse float switch on the pump so it turns off when the water level is too low is always a good idea. A redundant or second overflow box set higher than the first would also be beneficial. Either way don't worry even if you take every precaution you are going to floor the floor. It just happens. All you can do is minimize the damage... /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/biggrin.gif

Anyway I can't wait to see it up and running. Better get that camera dusted off.

 

Yeah, I'm a real S.O.B.

That's a good idea about the reverse float switch. If it was setup right, that could definitely save you from both a big mess and a burnt out pump.

-JB

 

i have a hob overflow and i cut egg crate to fit around the overflow area inside the tank(so no snails,etc get in),i also have a powerhead close to the overflow with the airline connected,from the powerhead to the top of the overflow(this is for when the power goes out,when it comes back on,it helps to prime your overflow). you need to set your return from your sump just below your tanks water level(make sure you have room in your sump because when the power goes out,your return from your sump will reverse flow and start filling your sump!)this is why you should set your return from sump just below your tanks water level so when it starts draining,air will get in and stop the flow. when the power comes back on,bingo,your pump from your sump starts returning the water to your tank,as it fills,it rises over your overflow and the airline from the top of your overflow connected to the powerhead in the tank helps to prime it. i have cut the power numerous times and it has worked every time.now i am not saying this is fail proof and a drilled tank is the route to go,but it has worked for me. WARNING!!!! my jerry rigged hob overflow has only been up and running for a few months,so far so good!

 

Very cool idea wolfman. I was lucky, my HOB overflow was a one time prime deal. Once set the U tube would never empty. Power could go off and on all it wanted. As for siphoning when the power goes off all I have had to do to fix that is drill a pin hole into my return nozzles below the water line. Power goes off, water level drops below pin hole, siphon broken. I suggest a couple holes though as hair algae and other things can clog it.

 

Of course Murphy's law states that at the time of a power failure, a snail will be covering the siphon hole preventing the siphon from breaking and causing a flood.  /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/hehe.gif/DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/hehe.gif/DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/hehe.gif