Another DIY sump question

Starting my first reef tank, 40 breeder.  Let me know if you think this DIY sump would be ok.  Going to be a 20L, not sure on skimmer yet but i think i will be using a Mag 5 for the return.  Thanks for the help.

 

My understadinig and I could be wrong for this design i dont want the water going into the fuge to get skimmed. I will limit the water amount and flow with the ball valve that will give time for the fuge to do what it needs with the unskimmed wate??...

Adam

 

Posted By iaJim on 07/05/2010 11:49 AM
How thick is the glass that you are using for your traps?
not sure yet, will purchase this week.  so my dimensions might be a bit off.

 

Thanks for the suggestions,  I changed a few things and will be building this next week.  This hopefully is my final design, dimensions may change a bit based on my skimmer and sump size.
Adam

 

1/4 inch glass was going to run me about $55-65 in DM area, i called a few places. A shop in a small town where i grew up in is only going to charge me $30

Adam

 

Posted By AJ on 07/14/2010 07:43 PM
What's the purpose for the little piece at an angle off of the fuge?
--AJ
good question..don't really no...., i thought since my evaporation would happen in the return area, that would bring the water in without splashing?   Not real sure if i need it or if I will even do that yet. 
Adam

 

Posted By iaJim on 07/15/2010 10:05 AM
I would think that would cause more splashing. That water coming from the fuge should be nearly silent as it slips into the adjacent chamber.
the water level would always be above the end of the slope, so it would splash less.  It would allow the return chamber to go down some with evaporation, and the water coming from the fuge would slide down that instead of falling and splashing.

 

Posted By B-Rad on 07/16/2010 10:40 AM
Adam I'm going to make a few suggestion's
 
1. You need to remove the right baffle on the left side of the pump. (the water flowing over the baffle will create lots of bubbles)
2. use that baffle and put it on the right side of the return pump with a gap at the bottom. 
3. you may want to widen the space between the baffles just a little so that the water flow slows down giving the air bubbles time to float back up to the top. ( or put a foam pad in there to trap the bubbles)
Just my two cents. Good luck, let us know it turns out!!
1. Thanks for the imput maybe i am not understanding you, or i have not clue what i am talking about .. if you could explain more?  Almost everything I have read has said a 3 baffle system is superior then a 2 baffle system. Let the water overflow a solid partition. This forces the bubbles to the surface where they can break. Next the water is directed down. Most bubbles do not want to do this. The water flows under the baffle by a space provided at the bottom then up again over a third baffle. Once again forcing any remaining bubbles to the surface where they can break. You can use two partitions, but they are not as effective. If you do use 2 you need to pass the water under the first one at the bottom of the sump and over the second one on the return section side away from the return pump. I will have a automatic top off system in the return area, that should keep the water level consistent.  That way the water flowing over the baffle will not create much if any bubbles and if it does they are kept at the surface away from the return pump.  Most of the bubbles will come from the skimmer side but I do like the idea of adding a baffle on the fudge side to push any bubbles to the top before going into the return section. I have done a lot of research, it seems everyone has a different idea, I am a bit confused. At this point I am going to try something, and if it does not work I will make changes as needed.  I have never done this so I have no real life experience, just what i have read and ideas.
2. I might do that, but i would do it the opposite way. force bubble to the top away from return pump.
3. agreed, i might add a bit more.
design #4