Aquageek`s 29G BioCube

Hello everyone! I am going to use this thread as a build journal for my 29G BioCube. I hope this is in the right forum. I've originally had the tank up and running for about 2 years. A few weeks ago I decided to tear it down and rebuild it with some added features such as - Rimless, removed the back sump area, upgraded lighting. I transfered the rock that I could into a 20G as well as my fish as a temporary home while the "remodel" takes place. Since I will be using new sand, and adding some new dry live rock - there will be a cycling period with the remodel. I also lost what little corals that I had due to some errors on my part with my water chemistry (noob learning the hard way) so I will be starting over with my coral collection. Maybe I'll be able to pick up some frags during Fall Fest /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/biggrin.gif


So here we go!


Equipment:


BioCube 29G (Rimless, rear chamber-less?)


Nano overflow and return kit from glass-holes.com


17"x17"x15" custom Acrylic sump (building now)


Aqua Illumination Nano


Vortec MP10


*Bubble Magus NAC 3.5 (planned)


Tunze Osmolator Nano ATO


Sicce Syncra Silent 1.5 return pump


BRS 4 Stage RO/DI filter


Instant Ocean Reef Crystals salt





Refugium:


Chaeto Algae


Red Mangroves





Fish:


(2) Ocellaris Clownfish


(1) Whip Tail Fairy Wrasse


(1) Firefish Goby





Inverts:


Snail only clean up crew from reefcleaners.org





Coral:


Stocking plans are mixed LPS/SPS reef with a few Zoa/Paly colonies





FTS 11/3/14:

 

Thanks, Adam! I will definitely have to take a look at the SCA-301. Looking at it, it looks exactly like the Bubble Magus I was planning to get - it even has the same foot print, which is good because I designed that portion of my sump specifically to fit the Bubble Magus. Removing the rim of the BioCube was an absolute PITA! They put so much silicone on the rim I could not get it to budge and ended up slightly chipping on of my corners trying to pry it loose. Eventually I had my brother take a Multi-Max power tool to it and he removed it in like 3 minutes lol.


I have been busy the last couple of days. I drilled the return and the overflow holes in the back of the tank and fitted the bulkheads, went to Menards to pick up the plumbing I will need for plumbing into the sump, and solvent welded my sump together which came out pretty good considering I have never worked with acrylic before. If all goes well this coming week I should be ready for a leak test!


As requested, moar pictures!


Drilling the holes!




Holes ready for bulkheads!




Bulkheads fitted, and fittings attached!




Roughing out the sump!




Assembly begins!




Finished! Time to cure.






Here is a quick pic from the tank I setup for the interim re-build of the BioCube. You can see my Red Mangrove seed pods are starting to root. They will be great on my refugium! This tank is under a 24" dual T5 HO fixture with an actinic and 10k bulbs. I miss my LEDs lol.

 

Yeah? That is awesome, you guys just saved me $100 lol. The thing is an exact clone of the Bubble Magus NAC 3.5. What depth do you keep it at? I designed that chamber of my sump at 9".

 

Leak test passed! It's time to get everything plumbed and get it wet!

 

I've got everything plumbed and setup! Also got my new skimmer last night (went with the SCA-301!). Now I'm just waiting a few days to watch params and will hopefully be able to start adding coral again soon!

 

Awesome! Congrats on winning the light! I was going to get a Kessil for this tank, but I didn't want to spend the a360 money and the smaller one doesn't have a controller. I was not going to get a fixture without being able to use a controller. Pretty happy with the Nano so far, I may need to adjust it a bit to fit the dimensions of the tank better - but it should work pretty well.


Are you wanting to just remove the rim itself, or are you wanting to remove the rim and the back sump area? The back panel for the sump area was easier to remove, a good utility knife with a fresh razor blade made quick work of it and I was able to remove it one piece. The rim was much more challenging. They used A LOT of silicone on the rim and I probably spent 30 minutes with my razor and a putty knife trying to cut away the silicone and pry the rim loose. I finally gave up and my brother got his multi-max tool out of his truck and had the rim off in like 1 minute lol. He made 2 cuts, 1 on each side of the tank and just pulled the rim off. De-rimming was harder and more stressful than both removing the back sump divider and drilling the glass. I am very glad I did it though, the tank looks great! I keep getting compliments on how much better it looks when I have guests over. I will say that my ATO is now paying for itself that I have removed the hood - evaporation like crazy lol.


Just try to be patient and not get frustrated, it will suck removing it but you don't want to get angry with it and risk chipping or cracking the glass. I do recommend making cuts in the rim before trying to pull it off. With the amount of silicone they use it's just on too good. I did end up chipping the very top of one of the back corners with all my prying on the rim (I was getting frustrated). I got lucky and it was a very small chip that I just re-siliconed back on and you can't even tell now.

 

That is a glass-holes overflow box and return kit. I got the Super Nano con Dientes overflow box (http://glass-holes.com/Super-Nano-con-Dientes-Overflow-Box-Complete-Kit-ghsndienteskit.htm). It's a 1" drain and a 1/2" return. I went back forth with the guys at Glass-Holes over email on what would work best for my system and design. We discussed that since I am running an MP10 and using a Sicce 1.5 for my return, that particular box would work perfect for my setup as the Sicce 1.5 is rated for 357GPH at max plus the head height puts it right at or below the recommended 300GPH for that box.

The system is pretty quiet, you can hear the "water fall" of the water draining into the sump but I find it soothing and not too loud at all. I have the tank setup in my living room and if your watching TV at normal volume you can hardly hear the overflow at all and definitely not distracting. I have also plumbed the whole system with 45s instead of 90s (minus the 90 coming from the bulkhead) for better flow as well.

In your scenario I would put the over flow in the middle and the return opposite of the end you plan to put the Gyre on. You probably don't need the extra acrylic, the glass is 1/4" all around on the BC. Also, with the the Glass-Holes setup, the nut goes on the inside, and the flange on the outside. From inside the tank to out its like this: Nut, Overflow box, gasket, glass, gasket, flange. For the return it's: nut, glass, gasket, flange. I have zero leaks and this is how Glass-Holes recommends you install. As for a top, I am running it open completely and haven't had problems yet, but I am considering doing something... I am not sure what though, the bow front makes it a bit harder.

 

Picked up a few frags at Seascapes the other day. Got a Frogspawn and a Green Star Polyp frag. The GSP is still closed but the Frogspawn is looking good. I'll grab some pictures this weekend if the GSP opens up. My rock is telling me that I am going through a little cycle - which I figured I would have since I added some new dry rock and sand. Hopefully it's a short one. I probably should have waited a week or 2 on the Coral but I couldn't resist. Need to check my params to see where I am at, was going to do a WC this weekend but may hold off if it is indeed going through a cycle. In the meantime, here is a pic of my sump in action!

 

I gotcha! Yeah, those gyre's do look pretty sweet. Center would be a good call.

 

Been away for a while. Not a whole lot of growth with my tank, experiencing a nasty phosphate issue so I just setup a reactor to run a gfo/carbon mix. I'll upload some new pictures tonight.