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Canyo Wont Go Away

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by ThyRaven, Nov 9, 2011.

  1. ThyRaven

    ThyRaven Well-Known ReefKeeper

    919
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    I have a 135g DT and a 50g sump.  I am running power compacts on the DT.  My rock has 8 or 9 thick looking spots of canyo.  I do a 65g water change bi weekly using RO water and Coralife reef salt.  I've done a few days where I dont turn my lights on.  I only have a kenya tree so I doubt that a 24 hour black out would hurt it to much.  None the less I still can not reduce the size or thickness of these spots.  Actually it looks like they are getting bigger.   I am running a Reef Octopus NW-150.  I understand that it is to small for my water volume but dont have the funds to purchase a larger one yet.  Was looking into GFO and Carbon but havent gotten that taken care of yet.  Would those two help me get rid of it? Any other ideas on how to get rid of this mess?
     
  2. vikubz Well-Known ReefKeeper

    734
    Cedar Falls
    Ratings:
    +8 / 0 / -0
    I have found that where there is cyano there is a build up of detritus caused by dead spots in the tank. Short term you need to use a turkey baster or power head to blow it off the rocks and/or siphon it off during water change. Long term, increase and/or change up your flow to eliminate said dead spots.
     
  3. Waverz

    Waverz Expert Reefkeeper

    Ratings:
    +5 / 0 / -0
    I too have found cyano is directly related to flow and excess nutrients.  Once these problems are fixed it usually goes away, sometimes it can be stubborn and keep coming back though.
     
  4. ThyRaven

    ThyRaven Well-Known ReefKeeper

    919
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    Hmm I dont think I have a flow issue. I have a korlina 4 on the left side of the tank pushing to the right and a korlina 3 on the right pushing left. I have dual returns that are right on brace lines of the 135 so from the left one is at 1/3 of the tank and the 2nd is at 2/3. The pump is an IWAKI 40 RXT pushing 1350 GPH thru both returns as it is pressurized and I dont see / feel any loss in the push. I would love to get rid of the korlinas and go to a set of MP60s but cant find any at a price I cant afford. Would also love to upgrade to Korlinas 5 or 6 and call it good there as well. Most of the canyo growth is right under the korlinas but the returns hit that area from above so I dont see a flow issue there. I'll look into it a little more. Thanks for the tip. Any other thoughts on this?
     
  5. iaJim

    iaJim Inactive User

    775
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    +0 / 0 / -0
    I'd agree with the previous posters who suggest that cyano is a combination of flow and nutrients. Shooting it with a turkey baster will uproot it and allow our skimmer to remove some of it. You might still have still areas in a tank that has pretty good water movement.
     
  6. Andy The Reef Guy

    Andy The Reef Guy Inactive User

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    +0 / 0 / -0
    I'm not so sure all the time about it being related to flow and nutrients. Certainly that pertains to 99% of the cases out there. But I have a 40BR that is on the same system with my DT (which is cyano free). The 40 has an mp20 and a korallia 4 in it, sand is frequently turkey basterreddd, and I still have rampant cyano in there. For cases like this....I might go to the chemi clean
     
  7. ronron

    ronron

    43
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    +0 / 0 / -0
    Once I got my bio-pellet reactor established  I finally got rid of any cyano and hair algae problems.  I have always fed my tank heavily and still do.  I did add a GFO reactor and carbon reactor since my phosphate always seems to be high (from the feeding, I'm sure) but I prefer my fish & coral to be fat and happy.  Zero nitrate, zero cyano, zero hair algae though.  I have also read once you have zero nitrate, the bio-pellet reactor can't remove phosphate either, another reason for the GFO reactor.
     
  8. danmgray Well-Known ReefKeeper

    307
    Sioux City, IA
    Ratings:
    +26 / 0 / -0
    Is it possible that is is diatoms? On my old FOWLR tank, I did 40% water changes every week, cleaned the glass, and siphoned the sand. After 3 to 5 days, I would have a new outbreak of diatoms...every week. This went on for years and I thought it was normal, but looking back, I was causing the tank to cycle anew with every cleaning.
     
  9. ThyRaven

    ThyRaven Well-Known ReefKeeper

    919
    Ratings:
    +1 / 0 / -0
    Am I doing to large of a water change? It is a bright purplish red color. I could take a pic and attach it so that we have a visual on what I am dealing with. All the hair alage is gone. My hermits ate it in 5 hrs lol they are huge now. anyway I never thought that I'd be cycling the tank after changing some of the water. Right now I am just topping it off. I added fans to my canopy and that is causing some serious evap now.
     
  10. blackx-runner Administrator Website Team Leadership Team

    Cedar Rapids, IA
    Ratings:
    +738 / 5 / -0
    I have had similar spots and like everyone said it ended up being dead spots. Blew the rocks clean, changed the flow around a bit and made more effort to blow the rocks clean more often and all was better.
    Its not necessarily the volume you are moving, but how you are moving it. You could be turning over 200x and still have dead spots.

    You could probably get away with changing less water. Sounds like your load is small, and you don't have much for corals yet. Having a little dirtier water would probably make your kenya tree happier even.
     

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