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Copperband, Help!

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by RabbitReef, Jan 26, 2011.

  1. RabbitReef

    RabbitReef Inactive User

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    I came home and Copperband was missing.  Took me while to find him.  I found him stuck behind liverock between rock and glass wall.  Lucky I was home in time to save him.  He has ich on his gills, beak, and fins.  I didn't have quarantine tank ready.  I'm no expert on this.  I have tried quarantine  few times and the fish kept dying on me. Can anyone tell me how to do it right way and try to save this copperband.  Greatly appreciated. 
    Nick
     
  2. JohnL

    JohnL Well-Known ReefKeeper

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  3. RabbitReef

    RabbitReef Inactive User

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    He is still swimming around. So I should take some water out from display to 10 gallon quarantine tank and drop salinity down to 1.09?
     
  4. JohnL

    JohnL Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    Remember you must treat all fish in the aquarium and keep the aquarium fishless for 4-6 weeks. Use a calibrated refractometer to adjust your salinity, You don't want to go to low and kill the fish or not go low enough and stop the Ich
     
  5. Armydog

    Armydog Expert Reefkeeper

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    +1 on hypo-salinity
     
  6. JohnL

    JohnL Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    ""Please read and fully understand the process before you start"". If there is something you don't understand just ask on here or over at Reef Central in the disease forum.
    You will start with water from your system...then slowly bring the salinity down to (EDITED) _1.009 then keep it there for a few weeks before mixing some new salt water to slowly bring it back up. You can bring the salinity down over a couple day without harm but take your time bringing it back up.
     
  7. RabbitReef

    RabbitReef Inactive User

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    Ok, the website you gave me didn't really explain enough of how to do it, start off same level at 1.26 and low it slowly? If so, how slow?
     
  8. RabbitReef

    RabbitReef Inactive User

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    Ok, This what I will do, I'm going to take display water out and fill it up in 10 gal. I do have small sponge that i left in the sump for months in case i need for quarantine.
     
  9. mthomp

    mthomp Inactive User

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    moved to correct forum
     
  10. JohnL

    JohnL Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    I changed the link a couple minutes after posting... It has the complete instructions. Here it is again http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/fish-diseases-treatments/23131-hyposalinity-treatment-process.html
     
  11. RabbitReef

    RabbitReef Inactive User

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    Before I put him in quarantine, he was slowing down and just about turning upside down. Now in quarantine, I use dripping method slowly to lower salt level. About 15 mins after in quarantine, he start to swim slowly like hes lost. This isn't look good. /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default//emoticons/sad.gif That is something I have to accept it and take this as learning experience.
     
  12. RabbitReef

    RabbitReef Inactive User

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    John, thanks for your help and sending the link. I appreciate it. I will keep you post on how copperband doing this far.
     
  13. adampottebaum

    adampottebaum Experienced Reefkeeper

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    Is your copperband eating frozen, pellets, or any other prepared food? I ask this because mine and most others only eat out of the rockwork and will do very poorly in qt, especially after the disease is already "visible". It might be best to do a freshwater dip. I don't want to persuade you one way or another, but please take this into account. If he just "developed" ich, it's been present in your tank before and is just now showing up because of the stress lowering it's immune system. It is and will always be in your tank unless you do a 6+ week hypo quarantine with ALL of your fish and the same period of time having your tank fishless. Inverts and everything else can remain in the tank at this time, they are not hosts of ich.

    Good luck!
     
  14. RabbitReef

    RabbitReef Inactive User

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    John, or anyone have ever use sodium carbonate (baked baking soda) mixing with water for to keep ph stable in quarantine, my question is how can you measure mixing water with sodium carbonate? It says .5 lbs per gallon? I would feel better to hear someone who has done this from girs experiences. I must say every time when something comes up always new. This learning process never ends. I love it! That what makes me really addict to this hobby.
     
  15. RabbitReef

    RabbitReef Inactive User

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    Adam- copperband don't eat well but only eat out of rockwork. How exactly do you do a freshwater dip? I'm sure it has been present in my tank before because I have goby watchmen that had ich on him. But its cured and never saw any coming back for last several weeks. I never knew it will always be in my tank. I don't have very many fish in my tank as well. I only have 4 green chormis, clown fish, goby watchmen, and copperband. I am considering to get uv sterilizers. Would this do any good? I will do hypo quarantine just to make sure all the ich is eliminate all the way in display. Last question, is it enough room to put all the fish in 10 gal? If not, I do have 40 breeder that I can use. Whats best use?
    Nick
     
  16. adampottebaum

    adampottebaum Experienced Reefkeeper

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    It's a 10ish minute dip in ro/di water that is the same temp and pH as your tank's water. Definitely read more about it, I've never had to do it on my own tank before, but I've heard good things about it!
     
  17. adampottebaum

    adampottebaum Experienced Reefkeeper

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    After more research, I take back advising a freshwater dip.

    Freshwater dips(http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/feb2004/mini4.htm)

    Freshwater dips are largely ineffective in the treatment of Cryptocaryon irritans (Burgess, 1992). The host epidermis and thick layer of mucus form a barrier impervious to osmotic shock (Colorni, 1985). "Most of the trophonts whose hosts had undergone hyposalinity treatment, including freshwater, for at least 18 h, were still alive and occupied the same position in the host by the end of the experiment, following re-adaptation to sea water. They later dropped from the fish, encysted, and the tomonts produced tomites" (Colorni, 1985).

    Note that the above quote says "most" and not all trophonts. Trophonts embed themselves completely into the epithelium under a layer of skin. This protects these trophonts from dips. As the trophonts grow in size they gradually displace the overlying epithelium. This is when they become visible as white spots or nodules. Exposed trophonts may be susceptible to freshwater dips, but trophonts that survive continue in their life cycle making this method only partially effective at best.

    Freshwater dips can cause osmotic shock. Typically the fish are exposed to the air during the process of capture, handling and transfer, all of which are stressful to the fish. Freshwater dips cannot be depended on as the sole method of treatment for Cryptocaryon irritans and can be counterproductive because they are highly stressful to the fish. They should only be used in combination with other treatments that will successfully interrupt the parasite's life cycle.
     
  18. Armydog

    Armydog Expert Reefkeeper

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    The 40g breeder would be best to use for the quarantine... They are already stressed from the ich and putting them all in the 10g would prob just stress them more.
     
  19. Sponge Expert Reefkeeper Vendor

    Marshalltown, IA
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    I agree with the 40 breeder and "not" doing a freshwater dip. I would also like to suggest that you feed the fish with food soaked in Garlic. The garlic will stimulate their appetites' and will have a positive effect on their immunity. Good luck!
     
  20. RabbitReef

    RabbitReef Inactive User

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    I lost copperband. /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default//emoticons/sad.gif Really disppointed but I value a good lesson and learned! I will be working on 40 breeder to set for hypo quarantine. I would like to thanks everyone posting me and help me through this. /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default//emoticons/smile.gif

    Nick
     

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