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Corals seem to be dying...any ideas?

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by ronron, May 8, 2008.

  1. ronron

    ronron

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    Hi all!  New to the hobby, only four months.  I have a 39g tank, Rena X2 filter, CoralLife Aqualight 96 watt blue actinic/10k daylight, and AquaC Remora Pro skimmer.  7 fish.  I started with 8 button polyps, multiplyed to 42 in about six weeks.  About a month ago I added a small frag of silver pumping xenia, a cauliflower coral, and a blue ricordia.  Also have a yellow gorgonian.  Within a week  the xenias stopped pumping and then started slowly disintegrating.  The button polyps have closed up and been closed (they were just like a mat before) now for two weeks and the other corals have stopped extending their feeders.  I can't figure out what is going on.  Ammonia & nitrite are zero, nitrate is around 20(hard to tell with API kit, low as I have gotten it).  Calcium is around 300, has been from beginning.  My dKh is down from 15 to 13, don't know how long it has been high.  Been doing water changes trying to bring it down.  I'm not sure what to do to save them.  Any ideas would be appreciated.
     
  2. seanndenise1

    seanndenise1 Inactive User

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    keep doing water changes and dont add any additives to the tank like calcium or two part.
    use prime on your new water before adding the salt to see if you are getting any chlorine or chloramines.
    if the carbon filter on a ro/di unit is exuasted it takes very little chlorine or chloramines to seriously effect your tank and it a easy and safe way to rule out that problem just to be safe. and dose the whole tank with prime as soon as you can just to be safe.
    any time you cant figure out whats wrong in your tank and theres just no answer you should look to your new water as the problem, and really the only thing you can do to new unsalted water is use a good water conditioner like prime.
    run carbon too, just so you know, zenia seems to not like carbon, thats my experience anyways.
     
  3. billbigsbe Well-Known ReefKeeper

    695
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    Hello and sorry 4 your troubles, dont let it ruin your new hobbie! To me it sounds like too many fish!!! In closed home aquarium systems there is always a competition for o2. It seems to me like u have a lot going on in a 29g tank. As mentioned above with the addition of carbon your light values will also increase due to the water being so clear. So be careful not to over-expose the coral too fast. Also check and see if your salt mix is fortified w/magnesium, stronum, iodine, ect. Over time livestock and coral will know the differance. How are the inverts? Check temp for pm and am temp swings, have u been running the airconditioning? Mabe buy a worm trap or fish trap and see if you have a hitch-hiker? Did one of your fish become a late night coral muncher? Lastly buy a tds meter 4 your fresh h20, my ro/di runs @ about 2-5ppm. Remember if it was real eazy everyone would have a saltwater setup! Hope that this might help, they were some of my early problems. If not let me know and everyone will brainstorm...... DAVE
     
  4. RobynT

    RobynT Inactive User

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    Posted By seanndenise1 on 05/08/2008 8:04 PM
    keep doing water changes and dont add any additives to the tank like calcium or two part.
    use prime on your new water before adding the salt to see if you are getting any chlorine or chloramines.
    if the carbon filter on a ro/di unit is exuasted it takes very little chlorine or chloramines to seriously effect your tank and it a easy and safe way to rule out that problem just to be safe. and dose the whole tank with prime as soon as you can just to be safe.
    any time you cant figure out whats wrong in your tank and theres just no answer you should look to your new water as the problem, and really the only thing you can do to new unsalted water is use a good water conditioner like prime.
    run carbon too, just so you know, zenia seems to not like carbon, thats my experience anyways.
    What is Prime?  I've never heard of it.  Wouldn't it really be adding another additive?
    Seems to me that checking the quality/readings on the water and to continue to do water changes is the best thing to do.  What about flow in your tank?  A four month old tank is still a pretty new tank and can easily become unbalanced.  Are your fish doing ok?
     
  5. Lee

    Lee Experienced Reefkeeper

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    First of all, welcome!!!! We will try to help you get your problems resolved.

    It looks like your parameters are a little off. Your calcium is too low, and you alkalinity is too high. 7 fish is a lot for 40gallons. What kinda fish do you have

    Xenia is tricky at first, I wouldn't worry too much about losing that.

    (sorry if this message doesnt make sense, its the first night after finals, and I just got back home from the bars)
     
  6. seanndenise1

    seanndenise1 Inactive User

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    Posted By RobynT on 05/08/2008 11:08 PM

    Posted By seanndenise1 on 05/08/2008 8:04 PM
    keep doing water changes and dont add any additives to the tank like calcium or two part.
    use prime on your new water before adding the salt to see if you are getting any chlorine or chloramines.
    if the carbon filter on a ro/di unit is exuasted it takes very little chlorine or chloramines to seriously effect your tank and it a easy and safe way to rule out that problem just to be safe. and dose the whole tank with prime as soon as you can just to be safe.
    any time you cant figure out whats wrong in your tank and theres just no answer you should look to your new water as the problem, and really the only thing you can do to new unsalted water is use a good water conditioner like prime.
    run carbon too, just so you know, zenia seems to not like carbon, thats my experience anyways.
    What is Prime?  I've never heard of it.  Wouldn't it really be adding another additive?
    Seems to me that checking the quality/readings on the water and to continue to do water changes is the best thing to do.  What about flow in your tank?  A four month old tank is still a pretty new tank and can easily become unbalanced.  Are your fish doing ok?
    prime is just a chlorine/ chloramine remover, its completely harmless, i would never trust a ro/di to remove chloramines.
    this time of the year when rivers are flooding the municiple water companies jack the levels of chlorine/chloramines up to the highest levels allowed 4ppm because of the high bacteria levels in the water.
    if you are not a person that changes pre filters on your ro/di unit religiously or test for chloramines in your new water, its a good idea to use prime.
    alot of times when i read posts about peoples fish gasping for air or laying on the bottom of the tank gasping for air, or just unexplained problems a bell just goes off in my head.
    saltwater keepers are basically clueless when it comes to chloramines, no insult intended, because they have never had to deal with them on account they use a ro/di unit, but ro/di units if not properly taken care of will let some chloramines past and in your water.
    chloramines dont go away like chlorine does, it just stays in the water and will build up levels as your topoff water is added.
    its very dangerous stuff at very low levels, it attacks the red blood cells of fish and basically suffocates them. it does at very low levels kill all bacteria, it can litterally destroy a tank.
    i would never trust a ro/di unit to remove it.
    i just found this article on ro/di units and chloramines, it explains alot better than i can, look at the toxicity levels on that chart, very very low levels to be toxic.
    http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-11/rhf/feature/index.php
     
  7. reeffreak3652

    reeffreak3652 Inactive User

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    I have always had problems with my Xenia not pulsing when my Ph gets low. I use it as kind of a Ph tester of sorts. Correct your Alk/Calcium levels, then check your Ph. Just my 2 cents.
     
  8. jtesdall

    jtesdall Expert Reefkeeper

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    Yes, what is your pH and Temp (at the heat of the day)? What is the source of your water, RO/DI? If not get some and do a large (50%) water change. Then do another 50% in two days. If you don't want to get drastic, then back off to 30%. But 50% with good water should make a large difference. You also didn't mention the salinity? Do you have much algae growth in your tank?
     
  9. ronron

    ronron

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    I have been changing 25% of my water every few days, at least 6 times now.  I either use distilled water purchased from the store or RO/DI water purchased from Pet Playhouse in Cedar Rapids (I'm considering buying my own RO filter form AirWaterIce, any experience?).  Water temp during day is usually 77/78 degrees.  I did do one water change with aged softened city water.  I also used Amquel Plus in it since it is high in nitrates.  I use Amquel in my aquarium weekly, the stuff really works.  Salinity is kept at .025 as measured by refractometer.  Gone through several stages of algae.  Currently am getting brown/red dust on rocks which blows off easily but is right back in 24 hours and a film on glass.  Also hair algae is returning now that I got rid of my urchin ( he ate my yellow polyps too).  I used Seachem's Marine Buffer to raise the ph in the beginning which is probably why the dKh is high now but it never did raise my calcium to the correct level.  I have two Emerald crabs (although I haven't seen the small one for 4 days), a Sally Lightfoot crab, and a Serpent Star which all seem fine.  I have been losing about one hermit crab every two weeks, one just today, not sure why.  They have plenty of shells but they seem to sqaubble a lot.  I noticed today two of my Turbo snails on their backs on the bottom.  They aren't dead but barely moving.  Is this usual?  I mix my water in a cheap plastic (new) trash can.  Could this be leaching some kind of toxin in the water?
     
  10. ronron

    ronron

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    As for fish, I originally started with nine.  They got marine ich within about 3 weeks as it turned out so I went out and got a whole new aquarium set-up (this has turned into an extremely expensive hobby!) for a quarantine tank.   I treated them with chelated copper and hyposalinity.  Only managed to save 2 out of nine.  I bought new fish and treated them with copper for 4 weeks before putting them in the display tank.  I currently have a Dwarf Flame Angel, two black & white Clownfish, a yellow Clown Gobie, an orange Diamond Gobie, a Six Line Wrasse, and a green Chromis.
     
  11. ronron

    ronron

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    And thanks for all the input so quickly!  [​IMG]
     
  12. Steph & Nick

    Steph & Nick Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    Get an RO/DI filter ASAP...filterguys are great and so is airwaterice
     
  13. glaspie69

    glaspie69 Experienced Reefkeeper

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    I would loose the amquel as it's nothing more than masking the problem at hand. I would slow down on the water changes, my guess is you've thrown the tank into a new cycle by changing that much water that quickly. Maybe try only changing the water once a week and testing the water several times weekly. As for the red dust...aka red slime or cynobacteria. What are you running for pumps? Red slime is usually caused by a lack of flow or high phosphates or overheating the tank (or all of them). Depending on what your pumping for flow you might be able to just increase with one or two more pumps and have it clear up. How long are you running your lights?
     

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