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DI Resin *ADDING* TDS?!

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by AJ, Mar 8, 2010.

  1. AJ

    AJ Inactive User

    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    So I learned a little something about DI Resin tonight and thought I would share.  First of all, DI resin doesn't last nearly as long as I thought.  Around 500-1000 gallons or so and it's time for replacement (of course if you have bad source water, even less than that!!  My RO/DI unit has a refillable DI canister that's difficult to see thru, so even with the color changing stuff, I could not tell that my DI resin had depleted. I was recently testing the water and I got a reading of 20+ TDS...so I started checking around.  I tested the pre-DI water and I came up with a reading of about 10 and I didn't understand how this could be possible...so I called AWI.  They told me that when you fully deplete your DI resin, it begins to leech the dissolved solids back into your water.  The longer you use the depleted DI resin, the higher the number will get, until finally, it can meet or exceed the amount of TDS in our source water!  Anyway, I refilled with new DI resin and now I'm good as new again.  I had never heard of this and thought some of you might find it interested...so next time you think your membrane is shot due to high TDS readings, test again right out of the membrane...maybe it's just your DI resin that needs to be replaced.
    --AJ
     
  2. FishBrain Expert Reefkeeper

    New London
    Ratings:
    +399 / 6 / -0
    500-1000 gallons I wish I got that much out of mine! I only get about 150gal then refill time. My tds is around 880 out of the tap so it uses it up quick. Good tip though I never thought about it leaching back out.
     
  3. AJ

    AJ Inactive User

    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    My water is 150 from the tap...which explains the difference in lifespan. I bet there's a formula for calculating that somewhere..
    --AJ
     
  4. nuccatree

    nuccatree

    274
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    I just got my model in today and will be hooking it up soon. I also bought a handheld TDS meter and was checking out of the tap....920. Wow!
     
  5. AJ

    AJ Inactive User

    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    Wow...yeah, that's well water for ya!

    --AJ
     
  6. vikubz Well-Known ReefKeeper

    734
    Cedar Falls
    Ratings:
    +8 / 0 / -0
    FishBrain - What is your tds coming out of the RO unit?
     
  7. FishBrain Expert Reefkeeper

    New London
    Ratings:
    +399 / 6 / -0
    Posted By vikubz on 03/09/2010 11:59 AM
    FishBrain - What is your tds coming out of the RO unit?
    It's zero
     
  8. vikubz Well-Known ReefKeeper

    734
    Cedar Falls
    Ratings:
    +8 / 0 / -0
    Seems weird that your resin doesn't last longer.

     
  9. FishBrain Expert Reefkeeper

    New London
    Ratings:
    +399 / 6 / -0
    I wish it did. It sucks haveing to change it all the time. It realy sucks if your setting up a new tank. I do have a tds meter and it is color changeing resin so no doubt it is depleated when I change it.
     
  10. beckerj3 Expert Reefkeeper Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +615 / 2 / -0
    Check out the FAQ section on Air, Water, and Ice for some calculations on how long the DI resin should last, based on the TDS coming out of the RO unit.  Here's an exerpt:
    [table]

    DI Life? How long will it last?
    First
    of all, there are two kinds of DI filter cartridges; vertical and
    in-line. Both can filter out the TDS down to zero (or very close to
    it), but they have different filtering capacities.

    To figure how long they'll last is simple math. Take the capacity of
    the DI filter and divide it by the TDS of the water feeding it. The
    lower the TDS feeding it, the longer the DI will last. This is why it's
    good to have a RO membrane to remove most of the TDS before using a DI.


    For Example:
    The vertical DI has a capacity of 6,800 ppm. The in-line DI has
    about half that capacity, so around 3,400. Let's say that the RO is
    reducing the TDS down to 20. This is what the equation will look like
    for each DI:


    Vertical DI:

    6,800 (ppm) divided by 20 (ppm) = 340 (gallons of pure [-0- TDS] water)


    In-line DI:

    3,400 (ppm) divided by 20 (ppm) = 170 (gallons of pure [-0- TDS] water)


    There are some exceptions to this equation. Higher than usual levels
    of some TDS can cause the DI to exhaust faster. It's also important to
    know when to flush the membrane before starting to make RODI water.


    Some examples of elements that, if in high levels, can cause the DI
    to exhaust faster are: phosphates, nitrates, silicates, salt, calcium,
    etc. The RO membrane can remove most of it, but the DI would have to
    work harder than usual to remove it all from the water.


    If the unit has sat inactive for more than one day and you do not
    flush off the membrane before making RODI water, it can cause the DI to
    exhaust faster as well. Make sure to flush off the membrane for one
    minute per day of inactivity. This doesn't really apply to those who
    use their unit every other day or every day. However, if you use it
    that much, you should still flush the membrane off once a month for
    about 30 minutes or so.


    [/table]
     

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