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dinoflagellates

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Bob H., Aug 22, 2014.

  1. Bob H.

    Bob H. New User

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    I don't post much, I usually just read what others post. And yes, I have read whats on the forum on the subject, and googled it for information on the www as well.


    Set up a 125 gallon tank june 3rd. Coarse gravel (not sand), Base rock, and some live rock from florida. The live rock was better than I expected. Came with halimeda, SPS coral, clams, etc. So all that got dragged through the cycle. oh my. I barely got thru and then a short cyano outbreak, and then a horrible hair algae attack. Put in phosphate remover, pushed magnesium up, hair died away. A lot easier than I was expecting. Then as the hair turned pale and withered away, the dinos came. I do not have them real bad. Snails are not keeling over. Long tentacle anemone is bigger and better than it was at the LFS. Pulsing Xenia is waving away. bubble coral doesn't look too bad. But the dinos are there. I have been putting in kalkwasser in my IV drip, and dosing about 15 ml of peroxide. I shoot it right into the filter socks. I can tell its messing up the dinos on the sock, but I really doubt that 15 ml is really going to do much in a water column like this. Not a newbie, I have had coral, clams, spawned and raised clownfish back in the 80s, but I have never had a problem like this before.


    So I bought a little 30 gallon tank and inhabitants off craigs list, but I don't dare put them in the big tank, or they will get infected. My son wants to set up a tank, he got a 75 gallon bowfront that is almost ready to put water in. I don't dare take anything from my tank and put in his and spread the infection, do I? I read that a freshwater dip kills off the dino in seconds. Do a freshwater dip, transfer them to a safe haven, and then nuke the dino? I have done zero water changes since the tank was set up because people have said it adds some of the trace elements the dinos crave, so I don't want to throw gas on the fire. Turn the lights down to 4 hours, turn them out and put cardboard up for total darkness for days. Use peroxide. So many cures. So can anybody tell me this - if I dip my rock, coral, etc in RODI water for 30 seconds or so, will that be enough to kill the dino so I can transfer to another tank? How do I acclimate to another tank, without spreading the disease? How do I move a very large tridacnae clam, without spreading the disease? I would almost prefer the hairy algae. It wasn't that bad. It was unsightly, but my yellow tang swam around all day with a full belly, and I had copepods and other microbugs thicker than I have ever seen. Now its just snot with bubbles in it. And I noticed I have a few aptasia, so after I lick this dino problem, they are next. My main concern as I have rambled on, is that I do not want to lose my livestock, but I cannot afford to spread the zombie plague to another tank either. Marine SAT? Any other miracle cures?


    Somebody will ask what my setup is. 125 gallon glass. Drilled, with a box overflow. Proflex sump with filter socks, and no media. No refugium. D & D Typhoon skimmer that with modifications, works well in my opinion. Hood full of LEDs. If it helps I can test water parameters tomorrow and post.
     
  2. xroads Veteran Reefkeeper Vendor

    La Porte City, IA
    Ratings:
    +1,014 / 6 / -0
    suck out what you can with water changes, and get your ph above 8.5.

    Just my 2 cents
     
  3. Reefman

    Reefman Inactive User

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    I had that before and did lights out for 4-5 days because it feeds off light and changed filter socks twice a day and it cleaned up for me...

    Mine was caused by no flow in certain areas...Don't brush it , it will only spread to other areas. I also did extra water changes when I was doing the lights out treatment.
     
  4. Bob H.

    Bob H. New User

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    Thanks. turned off the LEDs this morning. Changed filter socks. Will let you know what happens.
     
  5. Bob H.

    Bob H. New User

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    Ph down around 7.8. This is with lights off. I have been adding lime water in the IV drip I have set up to replace evap. Baking soda? Go buy some marine buffer? Higher concentration of lime?
     
  6. Reefman

    Reefman Inactive User

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    Why are you dosing peroxide? It's ok to dip corals in a Peroxide water mixture for a couple minutes, but I would not dose the tank regularly.....Be careful with the Kalk don't want to overdue that either...I use it when topping off ever couple days but make sure you are checking Alkalinity levels .....

    You will have evaporation that's part of this hobby....
    Limewater?

    What are your Phosphates at? Run a test be good info....
     
  7. Lee

    Lee Experienced Reefkeeper

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    Agreed- I beat them by keeping the lights out, keeping PH elevated (carefully dumping in a kalkwasser slurry to elevate ph) and syphoning out all that I could for several days in a row.





    Sorry to hear you got em, they are a beach.






     
  8. Bob H.

    Bob H. New User

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    Second day lights off. Came downstairs this morning and sunlight was streaming in. I propped up a big piece of cardboard, but I have not actually taped up cardboard to block every bit of light. There is still some ambient going in. Total black for 4 days?


    Stopping the peroxide dosing. Somebody on another forum said it fixed it for them. Since I am dealing with a menace I have not had before, I try what others said worked.


    Adding lime water (kalkwasser). I mix some up in a cup, let the sediment settle, and then pour the clear stuff in the overflow so it can mix with tank water and dilute it before it hits the tank. PH is maybe around 8. Raising it slowly so I don't kill anything. Maybe my timing is off here. Maybe I should have raised PH, and then shut off the lights?
     
  9. Kpotter2 Expert Reefkeeper

    North liberty, IA
    Ratings:
    +7 / 0 / -0
    I think lights out first. One thing at a time is always best. Don't rush things . Good luck
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 24, 2015
  10. Bob H.

    Bob H. New User

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    PH is still not where it needs to be. I looked behind the cardboard, looks like its almost all gone. So when I turn lights back on, dim them down, or full blast, and limit the photo-period to 4 hours, and gradually work back up to normal?
     
  11. Bob H.

    Bob H. New User

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    4 days lights out. Initally all looked good. Some of the coral that was stressed out by the dino was open and looking better. However careful scrutiny today revealed that they are not gone. I can see slight traces on some of its old hangouts. Not bad, but I can see the stringy strands, and the bubbles. I am going to hold out as long as I can before trying lights out again, and let the corals regain their strength.
    One thing that has me worried is a piece of bubble coral that looks injured. There are some spots where the skeleton is sticking up through its "skin". Dinos have set up residence on the exposed skeleton. I can see the bubbles.
    PH is also not as high as I think it needs to be (going by my test kit). I ordered a PH meter.
    So tomorrow I guess I do a huge water change and see what happens.
     
  12. FishBrain Expert Reefkeeper

    New London
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    +399 / 6 / -0
    I have always had luck at killing them with a three day lights out and a uv steralizer.

    Bill
     
  13. Bob H.

    Bob H. New User

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    UV sterilizer on order. 32 gallons of water set up to change out tomorrow.
     
  14. Bob H.

    Bob H. New User

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    I still have them. Changed 32 gallons. Running a little green killing machine 24/7. I still see them. They are not as bad (yet). Before they were so thick they were seeping through my filter socks. I don't see them that bad down there. They have some spots where they are concentrated. On some halimeda branches, on a couple of rocks, and apparently on a couple of polyp colonies. Polyps close up and do not come out.


    I have been dosing pretty heavily with limewater. My alkalinity is pretty high, so I need to watch that. I have never been able to get my Ph up to the levels (8.4 to 8.5) that are supposed to choke the dinos out. It would seem that I put the tank through another 4 days of darkness again? I really don't know how much of this lights out stuff my tridacna clams and coral can stand.


    So after I get this figured out the next problems are aptasia anemones, and a small mantis shrimp that suddenly appeared.
     
  15. Bob H.

    Bob H. New User

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    +0 / 0 / -0

    I still have them. Changed 32 gallons. Running a little green killing machine 24/7. I still see them. They are not as bad (yet). Before they were so thick they were seeping through my filter socks. I don't see them that bad down there. They have some spots where they are concentrated. On some halimeda branches, on a couple of rocks, and apparently on a couple of polyp colonies. Polyps close up and do not come out.


    I have been dosing pretty heavily with limewater. My alkalinity is pretty high, so I need to watch that. I have never been able to get my Ph up to the levels (8.4 to 8.5) that are supposed to choke the dinos out. It would seem that I put the tank through another 4 days of darkness again? I really don't know how much of this lights out stuff my tridacna clams and coral can stand.


    So after I get this figured out the next problems are aptasia anemones, and a small mantis shrimp that suddenly appeared.
     
  16. mpivit Well-Known ReefKeeper

    494
    Dubuque
    Ratings:
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    For aiptasia If you have a syringe you can mix up your kalk as a slurry and inject them in the mouth. Aiptasia X works great too, I think it is very similar to the kalk slurry, but much more expensive.
    If the aiptasia are small, I think peppermint shrimp work great. I added a few peppermint shrimp to my tank a couple years ago, after adding the shrimp, I never saw them again, but I haven't seen any aiptasia either, so I assume they are still alive and eating them.

    My tank went through hell with brown slimy algae between the 4 and 8 month mark. I tried lights out, siphoning, shortening the light cycle, but it would always come back. Finally I stopped messing with it, and eventually it just went away. I don't know if it was Dino's, but from your description of the previous blooms, I would think it was the same stuff. My tank mirrored everything you mentioned as far as the cycles go.
     
  17. Bud Loves Bacon Website Team Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member Vendor

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +1,818 / 14 / -0

    I have a different view on this. Any dino outbreak I have encountered has happened almost exactly 6 weeks after I changed something - moved rock, changed a flow pattern drastically, etc.


    I also am of the opinion that it should eventually go away on it's own, in about 2 weeks. This seems to coincide with the time period that most everyone has to deal with this using all the various methods discussed online, which kind of tells me that in most cases, whatever you do only mitigates the situation and doesn't actually solve anything, it solves itself and you were just there to nag and bother it for a while.


    My solution? Burn em out. They are feeding off nutrients released from bacteria/etc dying off when you make a change and mess up the tank equilibrium. I went directly against the advice of "lights out" and actually extended the DT light period. The thought here is that lights-out only causes MORE problems, because you are doing yet another thing to screw up the system equilibrium - causing things to die, or normal processes to temporarily cease, which results in more nutrients being available. So when you go lights on again, you get either a GHA outbreak or more dinos a few weeks later.


    So here's what I did instead:


    Leave DT lights as they are, or extend the photoperiod even longer. This causes a longer period of high pH also, and increases normal photosynthetic activity processes in the tank. This can possibly cause the dinos to grow faster at least temporarily, but it also causes the corals and other photo organisms to be more active, and one has to win (and you are going to intervene with the dinos)


    Restrict feeding to absolute bare minimum amounts (what fish can eat in a few minutes)


    Feed only at 10 minutes before lights-out


    At least once daily, if not twice, suck all the dinos you can out. I do this by taking a 12-24" piece of hard airline hose, attach this to a long section of soft airline hose, and siphon them out. Get the siphon started and then pinch it off so that you are only sucking when you need to. I was able to go over all rock on my 120g in ~20 minutes and only suck out about 1/2 gallon of water (and it STUNK - putrid)


    Use a brine shrimp net to collect anything floating around. I don't know about what kpotter said about them spreading if you blow them off, my experience was that they are going to grow pretty much wherever they want, so I wouldn't be against blowing off the rocks after the siphon pass, as long as you net and run a filter sock.


    Run a filter sock and change it about 1-2 hours after the siphon/power head pass


    Run carbon and GFO, if only in a mesh bag in the sump. Better if you have a reactor, but use only a small amount of carbon and change it often (like every other day)


    Run Purigen, 100mL bag in a flow area


    Call it what you want, it kind of falls into the category of "this one guy said to do this" but this worked for me. To me the lights out method seems like it makes sense because you are attacking the dinos, but there is a negative side effect that can cause the cycle to continue.
     

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