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DIY Stand structure question...

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by acidlittle, Jan 10, 2015.

  1. Jan 10, 2015 #1
    acidlittle Beaverdale

    acidlittle

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    I'm looking at making a 2x4 stand for a 40br, I'm wondering if I will be ok not having two 2x4 pieces running in the middle of the stand for center support, basically have a 2x4 base with 31" 2x4's as legs at the corners, and having a solid top. Or if I could get away with just having the backside have one of those middle pillars for support.


    This is confusing without pictures.....also if anybody in Ames/Nevada wants to drill my 40br I'd love them for life /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/smile.gif
     
  2. Jan 10, 2015 #2
    blackx-runner Cedar Rapids, IA

    blackx-runner Administrator Website Team Leadership Team

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    40 br is narrow enough a center support won't be needed. Top frame, bottom frame, and legs on the corners all of 2 x 4 will be more than enough. If you skin the sides and back with ply you add a ton of support as well.


    Lots of people run 120 gallon (4 ft) tanks using 2 x 4 stands without center braces. Once you get to the big tanks, and longer spans thats when you need bigger lumber. My stand for my 250 gallon tank is 2 x 6 lumber but no center bracing.



     
  3. Jan 10, 2015 #3
    abower Ryan, Ia

    abower Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    The hardest part with dimensional lumber is getting stuff that stays strait and true. Get stuff without knots and don't wait long to fasten them together. Agree with black. 4 legs, and plywood can make a huge difference in stability. I'd recommend levelers for each leg.
     
  4. Jan 10, 2015 #4
    acidlittle Beaverdale

    acidlittle

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    Awesome guys, that's what I was hoping to hear, I've literally never build anything out of wood by hand before, so this is a scary/fun project, I would hate for the 40 gallons to end up on the floor. I am also trying to do this with all salvaged wood for free /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default//emoticons/smile.gif I'm one a stupid tight budget because I'm trying to get debt free and buy a house. But the saltwater bug caught me and getting this 40br up and going is keeping me sane this winter!
    Do you know how hard it is to do woodwork in a basement? lol
     
  5. Jan 10, 2015 #5
    abower Ryan, Ia

    abower Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    Forgot. Use construction screws (not the black coated drywall/all purpose screws). 2 3/4" for 2x#'s and plywood thickness plus a minimum 1 inch to fasten plywood. Avoid Phillips bit heads and go for the torx (star) bits. Will most likely be a t-25. These give the best hold and bit life for framing work, will allow a good fastiner plunge to pull your work together.

    Have an extra furnace filter handy if you have any cold air returns in the basement.

    Check out your solid waste agency to see if they have a hazardous material swap. This is a good place to get partial cans of polyurathan to seal the lumber. Linn county has this and is free.

    Good luck with build
     
  6. Jan 11, 2015 #6
    Kpotter2 North liberty, IA

    Kpotter2 Expert Reefkeeper

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  7. Jan 11, 2015 #7
    mikesams05p71

    mikesams05p71 Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    I've got a garage and tools if you need anything. I've built a few like kpotter posted. Very simple to do.if you can I'd get new 2x4 boards.
     
  8. Jan 11, 2015 #8
    acidlittle Beaverdale

    acidlittle

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    I appreciate it! I've gotten a good start, and it looks like next week we might hit the 40s on the weekend so I think that'll be manageable and I'll knock it out then!
     
  9. Jan 23, 2015 #9
    Justin S. Pleasant Hill

    Justin S. Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    I just finished my stand and used oil based paint to seal the wood: here's my result! [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 24, 2015

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