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Drain noise - one Durso "flushing" - other isn`t?

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Eric, Mar 24, 2013.

  1. Eric Experienced Reefkeeper

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +33 / 0 / -0

    Looking for some advice as I have a 120g RR with two stock Durso's - right side is perfect and left side is flushing periodically.


    Pictures below - length for the right side (quiet) is substantially longer which may have an impact. Initially both returns were about 1.5" below the water surface. I changed the noisy side to .5" below, out of the water and 2" below which no real change.


    I read on the Durso FAQ's that this is almost always caused by back pressure in the drain.


    My next step is to go into a 1" Tee (vertical) on the noisy return and install a riser for a vent - possibly with a cap and vent hole for a reverse Durso.


    Thoughts?


    Thanks!


    -Eric


    Left (noisy) with changing water level (approx 1"/DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/wink.gif


    [​IMG]


    Right (quiet and stable)


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]



     
  2. blackx-runner Administrator Website Team Leadership Team

    Cedar Rapids, IA
    Ratings:
    +738 / 5 / -0
    I run mine with a cap and vent hole, and as long as I keep the vent hole cleared of salt build up I don't get the flushing.
    In the sump I run a T at the sump water level with just a little of the "leg" of the T above the water line.
     
  3. Lee

    Lee Experienced Reefkeeper

    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    It's hard to tell, but is your left side plumbing almost perfectly horizontal without any downward slope? I would see if you can slope it more using 45's instead of the 90's.
     
  4. nickbuol Here fishy, fishy, fishy...

    718
    Marion, IA
    Ratings:
    +17 / 0 / -0
    +1 on the vent hole. Just a small hole in the top of the cap will help. I have also seen people make a larger hole in the side of the cap and into the top pipe and then twist to either line the holes up more or less thus controlling the amount of air. Problem is that these holes need to be drilled while it is out of the returns due to needing the holes in the side.
    - Nick
     
  5. erayk1 Well-Known ReefKeeper Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member

    981
    Coralville, IA
    Ratings:
    +35 / 0 / -0
    Try bringing the drain tubes out of the water in your sump (slightly to reduce spray). I have experienced the way you have it and it will "flush" occasionally because it creates a siphon. Just a thought.
     
  6. nickbuol Here fishy, fishy, fishy...

    718
    Marion, IA
    Ratings:
    +17 / 0 / -0
    I used to have my drain pipes above the water level in my sump on my 120RR but it was too noisy for my liking, so I put the pipes slightly below the surface of the water in the sump and the noise level dropped a lot without issues of "flushing". Not saying that it couldn't be a problem for those without an air vent hole on their durso pipes, but just commenting. With the vent, any siphon is broken so maybe that is why I haven't experienced that myself. If you decide to not put in a vent hole, and do raise the pipes above the surface of the sump water, there are ways to deflect the water a little bit so that it keeps noise down. A couple of 45degree pieces or even a 90 down near the surface would help...
    Or just drill the small vent hole... :p
    - Nick
     
  7. Eric Experienced Reefkeeper

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +33 / 0 / -0



    The dursos have a hole in the cap ( 1/4"? ) with a semi-rigid piece of tubing sticking out of it.


    -Eric



     
  8. Eric Experienced Reefkeeper

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +33 / 0 / -0



    That's a great idea!


    -Eric



     
  9. Eric Experienced Reefkeeper

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +33 / 0 / -0



    They're both close to 90 degrees. The way the bulkheads are (slip vs thread) I didn't have opportunity to experiment. I do have the ability to go to a 45 degree if needed.


    -Eric



     
  10. Eric Experienced Reefkeeper

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +33 / 0 / -0



    Tried that and it didn't seem to matter. I would like to mellow the flow into the sump as it's full of bubbles.


    -Eric



     
  11. Eric Experienced Reefkeeper

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +33 / 0 / -0

    Thanks for the responses!


    As I mentioned (later, not in the 1st post) the Dursos have a vent hole drilled in them already.


    I replaced the 90 deg into the sump with a vertical "T", added a 2" PVC scrap and a PVC cap. 3 small holes in the cap seem to have stabilized the return.


    Although I no longer have the flushing, 2 issues still persist:


    [list type=decimal]
    [*]The overflow is quiet but I can still hear some turbulence/gurgling in the PVC so the issue isn't 100% resolved
    [*]The drain into the sump is creating quite a bit of bubbles (though fairly quiet) that's allowing micro bubbles into the display
    [/list type=decimal]

    I've been reading about using spa flex or just flexible hose (similar to what OEM's use for sumps) and can get both at Theisens to reduce the noise as well as going to 45's instead of 90's.


    Would also like to reduce the bubbles in the sump but I'm thinking that by reducing the trapped air in the drain I'll reduce the turbulence in the sump.


    -Eric
     
  12. Lee

    Lee Experienced Reefkeeper

    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    For the micro bubbles, the best thing would be to have a series of baffles in the sump (looks like you already do) before it makes it to the return pump chamber. Are you using filter socks at all? That would probably help cut back with the bubbles and help with mechanical filtration..
     
  13. blackx-runner Administrator Website Team Leadership Team

    Cedar Rapids, IA
    Ratings:
    +738 / 5 / -0
    If you find a way to calm the bubbles, then let me know. I have the same thing where the water pours into the sump.
     

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