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Green monti cap melting

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by mpivit, Jul 1, 2014.

  1. mpivit Well-Known ReefKeeper

    494
    Dubuque
    Ratings:
    +28 / 1 / -0
    I've got a problem, my green cap flesh is literally melting off. Leaving exposed skeleton. It has been going on for about 4 days.
    Tank has been running a little warm, about 83 degrees. Lights have not changed, and all params appear stable. The only coral that is dying is the green cap. Red caps, acros, birdsnests, purple caps and digitata colonies seem fine.
    Honestly I'm not that upset about it, I just don't want it to spread to other corals.
    Any ideas of what it could be?
    [​IMG]
    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
  2. blackx-runner Administrator Website Team Leadership Team

    Cedar Rapids, IA
    Ratings:
    +738 / 5 / -0
    That always sucks. I wish I could offer some advice but I don't think I can.
    I lost most of my cap, and a lot of my SPS in general, but I attribute that to neglect of the tank and a problem with excess nutrients. All my problems clearly showed up on test kits. I still need to do an overhaul, and see if I can get it turned around into a nice looking coral tank again. I just need to find the time to do it and the money to buy the equipment I am wanting
     
  3. Zach Well-Known ReefKeeper

    605
    Coralville, Iowa
    Ratings:
    +21 / 0 / -0
    Can you get a second picture of it?

    (might raise hell) but 83 isn't warm, 90+ is worrisome if sustained, but I keep my tanks at 84. The temp ranges we keep now are still carry overs form a time when DOCs were running rampant in our tanks and there was little O2 exchange from the tank surface because of protein build up from the lack of skimmers. Lets all evolve with the hobby as well!

    Rant aside, rapid necrosis is a sign of potential problems. You will want to remove or isolate the coral before it sets off a chained spike in the tank. Other than that if you are using a reputable test kit ( other than API) you will should see if there is an evident issue. Because you haven't seen anything yet I would point my nose toward something picking at the coral, lighting or placement.

    You can try and save what you can by cutting the living parts off the coral from a few cm away from the necrotic line. But this is not guaranteed to help just a shot. If the area that is cut begins to rot as well then it's trouble. Either way its either a bacterial infection or die off caused by intrusion and water quality...
     
  4. xroads Veteran Reefkeeper Vendor

    La Porte City, IA
    Ratings:
    +1,014 / 6 / -0
    What is your tank temp normally? . If you normally run 78, then 83 is a huge swing. Try to get your temp stable as you can before it spreads
     
  5. mpivit Well-Known ReefKeeper

    494
    Dubuque
    Ratings:
    +28 / 1 / -0
    In the winter my tank runs about 78, and really does slowly climb to 83-85 in the summer. It has been running in the 80s since at least may. I think Zach makes a good point regairding all the equipment we run that removes docs and adds air to our systems allowing tanks to run warmer. The problem is I don't. I run an algae scrubber and that is it. So my gas exchange may not be very good, that coupled with a calcium reactor, may be causing the issue. I know my ph is always low, but I don't worry about it.
    I chiseled my smaller (still about a foot in diameter) green cap of one of the rocks, and tossed it.
    The larger one is still in the tank, I'm sure it will die, I just want it to hurry up, so I could use it as a shelf for something else.
    I think it's really strange that all the corals in the vicinity including other caps and other montiporas seem fine.
    I just took these pics. I know the colors look bad, but that is because of my old IPads camera and not a true representation of colors.
    [​IMG]
    It's like a white jelly where the tissue meets the skeleton
    [​IMG]
    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
  6. Zach Well-Known ReefKeeper

    605
    Coralville, Iowa
    Ratings:
    +21 / 0 / -0
    I assume the light is trained on it to show the coral and its mot normally spotlighted on it right?
     
  7. mpivit Well-Known ReefKeeper

    494
    Dubuque
    Ratings:
    +28 / 1 / -0
    I cranked the whites up all the way for the picture. Light intensity has not changed in over a year. This cap was in the brightest spot in the tank, the other one which had the same symptoms was in a much dimmer location.
     
  8. Sponge Expert Reefkeeper Vendor

    Marshalltown, IA
    Ratings:
    +233 / 1 / -0
    STN and I think Craig is correct- the temperature creep. Have you changed salt lately and/or had other param swings in the past year? Such as dialing in the CA reactor, nutrient issue, etc?

    FWIW, SPS's need the most stable environment possible. People think that they are "home-free" when they don't see issues right away from having instability. This is a false perception. RTN, STN and tank crashes can occur 6 months or later after a tank has gone through instability of almost any nature.

    If you are seeing a slime/jelly like appearance on the cap, I would remove it asap! That sloughing could cause more problems being waterborne. Good Luck! :0)
     
  9. mthomp

    mthomp Inactive User

    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    dont suppose another coral could of stung it eh?
     
  10. jeremy Acro Addict

    Davenport, IA
    Ratings:
    +836 / 4 / -0
    I had a temp spike a while back and only a few sps colonies were affected. The corals right next to them were perfectly fine. But mine was slow recession so I was able to cut and save all the peices. Make sure your alkalinity stays stable or more corals may start also. Good Luck.
     

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