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Hammer Coral Dying Off

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Cameron, Apr 25, 2018.

  1. Cameron

    93
    Urbandale, IA
    Ratings:
    +29 / 0 / -0
    Hi All -- Well my Spring Fest Hammer Coral looks to be dying off. I'm just introducing corals into my 1 year old tank (14 gallon biocube w/cfl lights). My water parameters seem to be good (8dKh, Ca 525, Ph8, NO3 about zero), my magnesium seems to be ok, but I must admit some trouble using the Salfert tests as it's so fussy, that and the markings on the syringe are rubbing off. Currently the euphyllia is sitting at the bottom of my tank in a low turbulence area. I do 2 gallon water changes every 10 days or so. My other corals include, two zoas which are doing jim dandy and a button polyp, which seems to opening less and less. The euphyllia seemed to be doing fine for the first couple of weeks, but over the past 2 weeks seems to not want to open. Interestingly, around the same time, the top of my rocks began to turn white and my snails which usually sport hair algae hairdoos became clean cut. Any thoughts?
     
  2. Deleted member 1172

    Deleted member 1172 Guest

    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    What are your phosphates? That calcium level is waaaaayyy high. What other equipment are you running other than the CFL? Are you dosing anything?
     
  3. DangerJ Well-Known ReefKeeper

    894
    Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +322 / 4 / -0
    How long are the lights on? Can we get some pics of the tank? CA levels normally should be 4-500. Do you have coraline growth anywhere?
     
  4. Easy E Novice Reefkeeper Leadership Team

    136
    Shellsburg, IA
    Ratings:
    +37 / 0 / -0
    That calcium level is really high. What kind of salt mix are you using? Most do not have that much calcium, so you would have to dose with limewater or something to get it that high. It's also possible you could be adding too much salt mix. What is your salinity (specific gravity)?

    With the Salifert test, you will have to squirt almost all of the solution out of the syringe to make the solution in the vial turn blue if your Mg is in the correct range. The space between 2 of the long marks on the syringe (7/32") =.1ml of liquid. If you have .1ml left in the syringe when you're done, your Mg level is 1350ppm, which is about perfect. Anything between 0 and .2ml is probably OK.

    The white coating is probably calcium carbonate precipitation. This usually occurs when the Alk/Ca/Mg balance is out of whack. That would make sense since your Ca is so high. I think your next logical step would be to figure out how that happened.
     
  5. Buku Well-Known ReefKeeper

    597
    Ankeny, IA
    Ratings:
    +202 / 4 / -0
    What do you use to measure salinity?
     
  6. Easy E Novice Reefkeeper Leadership Team

    136
    Shellsburg, IA
    Ratings:
    +37 / 0 / -0
  7. Buku Well-Known ReefKeeper

    597
    Ankeny, IA
    Ratings:
    +202 / 4 / -0
    I was asking the guy who started the thread. Hydrometer can be very inacurate. Some people get lucky and they work. Refractometers is a more accurate piece of equipment to use. I used a hydrometer when I first got in the hobby it read 1.025 when it was actually 1.032.
     
  8. Easy E Novice Reefkeeper Leadership Team

    136
    Shellsburg, IA
    Ratings:
    +37 / 0 / -0
    Duh, sorry about that.:oops: A refractometer would definitely be better, but I'm one of those people who tries to get by on the cheap. My hydrometer seems fairly accurate. At least it seems to coincide with the amount of salt mix I add. About 3 cups in a 5 gallon bucket of water reads 1.025 SG.
     
  9. Sponge Expert Reefkeeper Vendor

    Marshalltown, IA
    Ratings:
    +233 / 1 / -0
    You will want some nitrate and phosphate in the tank Cameron. The hammer could be having a problem caused by a few things...is it getting enough food, light, flow, etc? Did it get injured and is it developing brown jelly disease? Is it water quality? Did you have alkalinity suddenly take a nose dive or did the magnesium or calcium suddenly change? There are several possibilities as you can see. The first things to concentrate on are stability (temp/salinity/alk/ca/mag/nitrate/phosphate) lighting and flow. Once you achieve that, which requires observation, testing regularly,...then you want to look at your stocking levels, feeding and monitoring. Stability and keeping a balance are keys along with knowing your system(fish, inverts and corals). A nano tank is harder to run as there is less dilution and changes can happen very quickly.

    In a perfect world, you will want to have a salt mix that provides the amount of alkalinity, calcium and magnesium that you prefer to keep for your livestock in. With your very high calcium level and low stocking level, it will take a long time for the calcium level to drop. Make sure the salt mix used is stirred/mixed well in the bucket/bag/box. Whatever salinity measurer used, ensure it is accurate...check yours with another reefer's. Use a mentor/someone who you trust, has good experience, will help you quickly and never hesitate to ask questions/get help when needed.

    You can do this Cameron!:D
     
  10. Cameron

    93
    Urbandale, IA
    Ratings:
    +29 / 0 / -0
    Wow thanks for the quick replies. Sorry major goof, I incorrectly reported my calcium, it's actually 440. The other equipment I'm running is a protein skimmer (coralife biocube), 2x240 korolia powerheads, homemade media basket (purigen, filter floss). I have no idea what my phosphate is as I don't have a test kit, is this something I should get? I'm not really dosing anything, though I must admit over the last week or so I've resorted to Marine Biologist in a vial, by dumping some chemical in that I won at Springfest (ph balance, prodibio reef booster, purple up). I also won some prodibio Iodi+, should I dump this in? My lights are on for 10 hours. I'm using Instant Ocean reef crystals. I do have some coraline on my rocks and back walls. In regards to the Salifert, the trouble is that the air bubble when I load the solution seems to vary a few ml every time I load it up, which results in varying shots (1350, 1170,1430,1270). My salinity is normally 1.026, I'll re-test when I get home. To measure salinity, I'm using a generic refractometer, which I haven't calibrated since it was purchased. I'll post a pick of my tank when I get home.

    Unfortunately, about 2 weeks ago I saw it eject some of its zooxanthellae, but I was hoping it would recover. No brown jelly. Ahhhh, regular testing my great weakness, but I do recognize this is the key to stability, that and logging my results. I guess, I knew I would have some losses when I started to add corals, but it is sad to see one's euphylia slowly wasting away. Given that things continue to deteriorate, when should I pull it?

    Thanks for the encouragement, which along with advice is probably the best resource for us aspiring reef keeper.
     
  11. Sponge Expert Reefkeeper Vendor

    Marshalltown, IA
    Ratings:
    +233 / 1 / -0
    Yes, test for phosphates! As a newbie, testing should be weekly minimum(if you see any change that gives cause f lo concern, test- salinity, check temp and flow, test all, calcium, magnesium, nitrate and phosphate. It is also good to check ammonia). Please do Not Add things that are not needed or if you do not know what they are made of, how much it may add to the tank, etc. Just because you have it, does not mean the tank needs it...or wants it. Iodide can be deadly.. PurpleUp can add calcium and other things to unbalance your water parameters. 1.026 is not a general salinity as salinities very across the oceans. 1.026 is like for the Red Sea region. 1.025 and 1.024 are other salinities commonly found. It is advised by others that a person uses the salinity the fish and corals typically live in. I find 1.025 as my balance A refractometer should be regularly calibrated. Try 2 little fishes natural seawater calibration solution. It's natural, a good amount for the money spent. Shake well, use a pipette and replace the cap on the solution right away to avoid evaporation. I have always used a couple others' salinity reads to ensure mine is accurate. I always calibrate before measuring...every day that I use it
    It is a instrument that can lose calibration easily. When done using it, rinse with RO/DI water...it keeps the lenses clean and helps prevent rust on the 2 screws

    As long as you are not seeing brown jelly disease, I would not remove the from euphyllia. A polyp or 2 could be in the head but you cannot see it. That polyp or 2 could survive, thus regrowing. If there's brown jelly, remove it right away and try not to lose any of it(jelly or polyps) into the water or falling on another coral. Brown jelly disease can sptead.

    All of us have times when testing is not done regularly for whatever reasons. However, even though our corals look "just fine", parameters do change. Corals and fish do adapt but that isn't stability. Over my reefing years, I've had salinity, all ca, mag, nitrates, phosphates change to very high and very low levels. Sometimes I seen some corals tell me...oops, something is off. Other times, they look fine But, levels were off.Observation is a key for reefkeeping, but it not an end all. Testing must be done...

    Educate yourself very well Cameron with the basics. Basics are the foundation and takes people to stability. We are dealing with animals that have to rely upon us for their survival...just as we rely on others for assistance. You have heard the saying.."Live and Learn", right? As stewards of those that depend on us, the real saying is "Learn and (then) Live"!
     
  12. Cameron

    93
    Urbandale, IA
    Ratings:
    +29 / 0 / -0
    Thanks for reply and advice. I will certainly take them to heart. On an update, woke up this morning and my 10000k bulb burnt out... sigh. Always have a backup bulb, lesson learned.
     

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