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Advice? high phosphate and ammo

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by leymas, Dec 15, 2015.

  1. leymas

    53
    Des Moines
    Ratings:
    +9 / 1 / -0
    Have a high phosphate in the new tank. Is it because I just started it, and it's still cycling?
    salinity 1.025
    PH is around 8.4
    Ammo .25
    Nitrate and nitrite are 0
     
  2. Borky00 Well-Known ReefKeeper

    472
    Lisbon
    Ratings:
    +70 / 0 / -0
    I am dealing with that in my tank.
    Questions: How long has it been setup?
    Rocks - were they live? all of them?
    Fish? How many what size tank do you have?
    Do you have a bare bottom or sand (how much?)
    What do you have for a filtration system?
     
  3. leymas

    53
    Des Moines
    Ratings:
    +9 / 1 / -0
    Been up about a week or so now.
    Dry rock.
    Sump with skimmer.
    80 lbs of wet sand.
    75 gal.
    No fush
     
  4. Borky00 Well-Known ReefKeeper

    472
    Lisbon
    Ratings:
    +70 / 0 / -0
    Way too soon to worry about Phosphates just let it cycle. Patience. I am assuming your replacement water (RO/DI) does not have high Phosphates. That would be bad.
     
  5. leymas

    53
    Des Moines
    Ratings:
    +9 / 1 / -0
    Never tested ro/di. I know it reads all 0's.
    Thanks I'll test that tonight.
     
  6. GoodGreef Well-Known ReefKeeper

    681
    Clive, IA
    Ratings:
    +239 / 2 / -0
    If you adequately cleaned the dry rock the phosphates should subside. Higher levels of ammonia are good early on as that is what fuels the cycle to start. After a couple weeks it should go down and begin showing higher levels of nitrites. Then those levels should go down and nitrates will rise. Just let it be for 4-6 weeks and stuff should level off. If the nitrates or phosphates remain high you may need to do more water changes than after a usual cycle. Eventually they should go down unless your rock is really bad leeching. Worst case is you end up having to pull out the rock and clean it. There are a couple methods to resolve it, my preferred is an acid bath. In any event, you've got it all in there so may as well wait and see if it levels out before messing with anything.
     
  7. Armydog

    Armydog Expert Reefkeeper

    Ratings:
    +738 / 8 / -0
    What is your phosphates reading?
     
  8. leymas

    53
    Des Moines
    Ratings:
    +9 / 1 / -0
    10.0
     
  9. GoodGreef Well-Known ReefKeeper

    681
    Clive, IA
    Ratings:
    +239 / 2 / -0
    Is that in parts per million or parts per billion? If its billion then you're completely fine for cycle stage. If it is PPM then you need to do a larger water change. If several water changes over a week don't make it decline significantly you may need to start over after treating the live rock and cure/treat it separately before trying to cycle again.
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2015
  10. Armydog

    Armydog Expert Reefkeeper

    Ratings:
    +738 / 8 / -0
    What test kits are you using?
     
  11. leymas

    53
    Des Moines
    Ratings:
    +9 / 1 / -0
    My mistake. That reading of 10 is in the 29 gal.
    Not sure what to do with it either.
    I'll take another phosphates reading when I get home on the 75 gal
    --- Auto-Merged, Dec 15, 2015 ---
    API
     
  12. leymas

    53
    Des Moines
    Ratings:
    +9 / 1 / -0
    Okay.. so the new tank phosphate is .25 ppm.
    The biocube is 10.0 ppm
     
  13. Bud Loves Bacon Website Team Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member Vendor

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +1,818 / 14 / -0
    API phosphate is not very accurate on the high and low ends, so 0.25 could be +/- 0.1 and anything over 2 or 3 is difficult to differentiate. IMO
     
  14. GoodGreef Well-Known ReefKeeper

    681
    Clive, IA
    Ratings:
    +239 / 2 / -0
    Pick up a salifert or red sea phosphate test, or a hanna checker. When I started up I had an API kit still left over from my freshwater tank and it always showed phosphate way high.
     

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