1. Do you have an old account but can't access it?


    See Accessing your GIRS Account or Contact Us - We are here to help!

ICH Help

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by craftpam, Mar 11, 2010.

  1. craftpam

    craftpam Inactive User

    66
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    Okay, this will be long...sorry in advance.
    I'll start by saying I'm very aware that I should have set up a QT tank and quaranteeded every fish I got. I was hoping to get lucky, obviously not. I have a tank now and will QT religiously from this point forward, I can't do this again.
    10 Days ago my blue tang (whom I'd had a little less than 2 weeks) started showing signs of ich. This was one day after adding two new clowns, however I'm guessing that was unrelated. I've treated the tang with raised temp, garlic and kick ich (EXPENSIVE AND APPARENTLY WORTHLESS). No other fish showed symptoms until yesterday am. My clowns all looked bad, but more slimy and stringy than spotty. Lost one immediately, another last night, and another this am. I scrambled to buy and set up a 20 gallon QT yesterday. Used water from my tank (so infested) and treated with Rid Ich + (formalin and mal green) I used this as I think the clowns have Brookenella based on symptoms and formalin is supposed to help that. Guessing my treatment was too late, one is still hanging on but looks bad and not eating. I put the tang in the QT tank last night and it freaked, and then looked pale and stressed at the bottom. I left her in there for 4 hours but then thought she was dying so returned her to the Display tank. In the display tank she eats (but not the metronidazole food paste I ordered and mixed up) she'll eat anything else though. She looks pretty bad...Still in my display tank are a goby who appears unaffected, and 2 damsels who look bad but I haven't been able to catch to move yet.
    I've been to DSM 4 times this week to buy different stuff, I have a cleaner shrimp who doesn't clean, bought a neon goby who did a great job cleaning for the 2 days until it got ich and died. I've got Copper safe that I haven't used yet, the Rid Ich +.
    I don't know whether to change the formalin water the clown is in to new salt water and treat with hypo, or copper, or just give up. I really want to save my tang. I've done a ton of reading, and basically just got to the point where I have no idea what the best route is. I believe the goby can't be in copper so I'd have to treat the other fish for 2 weeks, then change the water and move the goby in, then let the tank go fallow from that point. Or I can try Hypo, but not sure if thats the best route for the tang. If the clown lives will switching it from formalin to copper or hypo be too much?
    I'm also freaked out about the QT tank not being cycled, I have to travel for work Mon-Thurs, my husband will do what he can, but daily water changes and monitoring ammonia might be too much.
    I haven't slept in days as I'm so stressed about the fact I've already totally messed this up. Please give me some suggestions on the most likely way to save my tang atleast.
    PS Display tank has inverts and live rock, so can't treat there.
    Should I move some live rock and treat with hypo, would that be enough filtration to prevent ammonia spike? I know the rock would need to be tossed in the end...
    Are there any of the vets or petstores in des moines that do fish "boarding" or treatment? I'm really worried about leaving next week, but obviously have no choice...
    On top of that I just ran out of salt and don't want to run to DSM again today, will the aquarium salt at Earle May or Wal Mart be okay to use?
    Sorry for the rambling, I'm stressed, I've spent several hundred dollars on stuff that doesn't seem to be helping, and I don't know what to do.
    Thanks again, Pam
     
  2. Jay Well-Known ReefKeeper

    333
    Marion
    Ratings:
    +2 / 0 / -0
    Personally I have never dealt with this, but I have read many many posts on other forums saying they used Kent Garlic Extreme, or something very similiar. They both soaked the fishs food in it and gave the fish rinses in it. I know it could take days before you see results.
     
  3. FishBrain Expert Reefkeeper

    New London
    Ratings:
    +399 / 6 / -0
    I would mix up new water for the QT tank and use the copper safe. It is usualy not a good idea to mix meds. Don't worry about the tank being cycled because you change half of the water out dayly. Don't put any rock in there unless you are going to keep it in there as the copper will leach into the rock. Hope this helps.
    -Bill
     
  4. craftpam

    craftpam Inactive User

    66
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    I've been soaking food in garlic, and have dosed in the tank a couple times, guess I could try more. I'm afraid my fish is too far into the infestation for it to work..
    I don't have a copper test kit yet, is it okay to mix it up and get it started and go get a copper test kit tomorrow, or should I wait until I have the kit? And really 50% every day on water changes, yikes, my husband is going to kill me. I've been buying RO water at the store, is it okay to try tap water, and and use amquel to condition it?
    Thanks, Pam
     
  5. craftpam

    craftpam Inactive User

    66
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    What do you think the odds of the tang being okay in the main tank until I get back from my trip Thursday? Probably low? It would be so much better if I could be here during the treatments. Or maybe I should do hypo until I get back, would a couple of pieces of live rock keep the tank stable enough for a few days?

    Pam
     
  6. FishBrain Expert Reefkeeper

    New London
    Ratings:
    +399 / 6 / -0
    If you want it to live you better get it treated ASAP! As far a tap water it should be fine for a QT tank. I have used tap water for many years in fish only tanks. I would use the copper instead of the hypo method I would think it less stressful.
     
  7. AJ

    AJ Inactive User

    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    Just a note on the hypo...the fish don't seem stressed at all.  All swimming around and acting like they don't have ich.  Eating well and looking otherwise healthy.  Just keep your corals out... ;-)
    --AJ
     
  8. xroads Veteran Reefkeeper Vendor

    La Porte City, IA
    Ratings:
    +1,014 / 6 / -0
    Hi Mary,

    I have been down your road on both issues. Here are my thoughts.

    Your clowns probably did not have ich. They probably had brooknella.

    Ich & Brooknella are both parasites. They are present in many fish, but usually the fish are healthy enough to keep them in check. With the combination of all the events the fish get weak & the parasites get the upper hand.

    Blue Hippos are ich magnets. I read a study where a researcher found ich in 90% of Blue Hippos studied.

    The kick ich, slime x and all those other wonder treatments are usually smoke & mirrors & often does more harm then good.

    Here is my thoughts on going forward.

    You will have to let your main tank go 100% fishless for a minimum of 6 weeks. Dont worry about any shrimp, crabs, snails, or any other inverts as ich has to have a fish host. IF you dont let your tank go fallow, the ich will survive in the tank & then re infect your fish when you reintroduce them.

    For your QT.

    Get an air driven sponge filter, 2 would be better. I would put them in your tank for a day or so to collect some bacteria. Then transfer it to your QT. You can also add some LR to your QT.

    The air driven sponge filters will really help with your water quality. Keep it bare bottom so you can suck out any waste easier. You will need a refractometer or similar as you will have to measure your salinity exactly. The floating needle type is not accurate enough. You need to drop it down to 1.09 over 7-10 days time. To fast & it can damage fish kidneys. Do not go below 1.09 as this also can damage fish kidneys.

    Ich can survive at 1.11. but not at 1.09. You will need to let the tank go fallow for at least 6 weeks so take your time. After a few days at 1.09 slowly raise it back up over 7-10 days again.

    Garlic will help your fishes immune system.

    You can give me a call sometime if you want some more help on it.

    Craig
     
  9. JB Veteran Reefkeeper

    Marion
    Ratings:
    +3 / 0 / -0
    In my opinion the worst thing you can do if you think your tank has ich is overreact. As Craig mentioned, if you keep your fish healthy and stress free, they are (in most cases) going to do fine. On the other hand, if you start messing with all kinds of parameters, dumping in all kinds or chemicals or chase them around with a net trying to get them into a QT tank, you may end up doing more harm than good.

    So, in a nutshell: Don't freak out over ich.

    -JB
     
  10. craftpam

    craftpam Inactive User

    66
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    JB,

    Point well taken! My husband totally agrees, I'm making him crazy. To try to avoid doing something else stupid, I'm going to leave things as is until tomorrow and then decide what to do. I need a break, and hopefully the fish will be okay till tomorrow, it is still eating, skin looks terrible though.

    On a surprising note, the sole surviving clown fish is up swimming normally in the QT tank. Had been swimming vertically or resting on PVC. Definitely NOT getting my hopes up, but maybe he'll pull through. He has no skin sloughing off yet...seems they don't live long once they get to that stage though.

    Thanks to all for your suggestions, if anyone else has opinions I'm very interested. I'm still torn on the best course of action, but will decide tomorrow.

    Has anyone used stability to cycle a tank? Wondering if it would help in a QT tank too...

    Pam
     
  11. phishcrazee Experienced Reefkeeper

    Riverside
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    I've used hypo-salinity and its worked well, just stick with it (about 6 weeks). I've used a 5g bucket as quarantine and as a hospital "tank" with a small heater and small pump for circulation fine. Makes the treatment easier because its on a smaller scale.........make sure you drop the salinity gradually as suggested. You can soak the food in garlic that you've cut up too, but when I've done this, I just take out the garlic chunks as the fish don't seem to like them very well. A good vitamin supplement will often have garlic in it. Good luck!
     
  12. Eric Experienced Reefkeeper

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +33 / 0 / -0

    Many seem to think that hypo is the best alternative as it is less stressful for the fish and it's thought copper can cause secondary infections/complications with prolonged treatment.

    I didn't try hypo as I was already treating a qt with copper, and apparently low salinity makes copper toxic so the two treatments can't be combined.
    Not over reacting is good advice, but waiting too long can have disastrous effects.
    It does concern me that you had a fish, a damsel (Clown) no less, that went from fine to deceased in 24 hours - seems a liitle quick for ich as xroads pointed out.

    Some reading:

    http://atj.net.au/marineaquaria/marineich.html
    http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php
    Good luck!
    -Eric
     
  13. xmasia

    xmasia Well-Known ReefKeeper

    376
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    ive never had to deal with ich in the saltwater world hope i dont have too. but when i was running a freshwater 55g if my fish developed ich i would raise my temp to 81 till all gone. so my ? would be could the same be done in the qt tank with out useing chems. and let the display go fallow,or could you raise the display temp also??
     
  14. Bluefool

    Bluefool Inactive User

    377
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    I fear freshwater Ick and Saltwater ick are not the same beast.  They look a lot alike so share a common short name, but I'm not sure what works on the fresh water will work on the salt.
     
  15. craftpam

    craftpam Inactive User

    66
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    I wanted to thank everyone for their suggestions. Especially to Craig for talking me through the hyosalinity process. (I unfortunately couldn't find a refractometer even remotely locally, will order one, but was afraid to wait for that to come, and then the slow decent on the spg...not sure how many more days my poor tang has)
    I also emailed with Bob Fenner a couple of times and he recommended Quinine Sulfate. I have some arriving tomorrow. I will be treating in my main tank (not the ideal, but also not too bad, have to remove snails, crabs can stay, filter bed should not be affected). This allows me to treat while out of town next week and not worry about an ammonia spike in the QT while my husband is "fish sitting".
    The little clown did not survive. Most definitely not ich like the tang has, looked like Brooklynella, and based on rapid progression I'm assuming thats what it is. Will be very careful if and when I re-introduce clowns, fear the rest might suffer the same fate. I may run a 20 gallon just for the clowns since they are one of the only fish I "really" wanted.
    Anyhow, just wanted to give an update. I will post an update on how things come out in the long run. This most definitely sucks, and I know its my own fault for not running a QT tank. Definitely not an error I'll make again.
    Take care, Pam
     
  16. Eric Experienced Reefkeeper

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +33 / 0 / -0
    Pam,
    We all wish you luck in your treatment as loss can certainly be disheartening, to say the least...
    I would assume the Quinine Sulfate was recommended as it can be done in the main display tank?  It doesn't appear that it's high on Fenner's list:
    http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm
    "C) Metronidazole (aka Flagyl), Quinacrine Hydrochloride, Quinine Sulfate. Not effective consistently."
    If possible, I would still suggest a quarantine tank...can actually be setup very in-expensively - even a 5 gal bucket as Fawn stated.
    -Eric
     
  17. xroads Veteran Reefkeeper Vendor

    La Porte City, IA
    Ratings:
    +1,014 / 6 / -0
    Good luck Pam!

    Brook can be nasty stuff for clowns, I lost my whole hatchery to it in a week.

    A refractometer is a must for every reef keeper in my book. The swing arm hydrometers are just too inaccurate. I checked a brand new one out of the package & it read 1.022 vs the refractometer read 1.027. If I would have raised my salinity to match the swing arm it would hae put my salinity at 1.031

    Craig
     
  18. craftpam

    craftpam Inactive User

    66
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    Craig,

    Scary on the hydrometer, I'll definitely be ordering the refactometer.

    Eric,

    I know on their site the recommendations are a bit inconsistent. However when he emailed me he said he does not like copper for tangs or clowns, and treats with QS for those. His recommendation was that I use the QS in the QT tank, but when I explained I'd be out of town and thus unable to monitor ammonia spikes in the non-cycled QT tank he agreed that treating in the display tank didn't pose too much risk if I removed the snails (Kills mollusks instantly.) It should be here by 4:30, here's hoping it works!

    I did set up the QT tank on Wedensday, am currently sterilizing it as I used it to treat the clowns with formalin, will then set it back up and get it cycled as I will most definitely be qt'ing any fish I get from this point forward. I have my snails and cleaner shrimp in a seperate rubbermaid with a HOB filter, heater, and some live rock that I'm hoping keeps it cycled enough for them (used system water). Also bought stability to put in there to try to help.

    I'll update everyone when I get back from Charlotte Thursday. (Fish will still be cared for, my husband is home, he's just not as obsessive as I.)

    Pam
     
  19. craftpam

    craftpam Inactive User

    66
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    Just wanted to give everyone an update on the use of Quinine Sulfate for Ich in my display tank. Administered the meds on Saturday afternoon. By Sunday afternoon most of the spots were gone. I left on Monday, and just got home this am. The fish, including the tang all ate each day when my husband fed. Activity level has not been quite normal, but have had to leave the lights off with this medicine due to the fact it is photosensitive. As of today my Tang looks 100% normal, and I have the lights back on, and will do a water change tomorrow. There do not appear to have been any ammonia spikes, etc. The hermit crabs are still moving around fine. (Snails and cleaner shrimp were moved to a QT tank) I'm going to email Bob Fenner today to see if I should do a second treatment course after the water change.

    I'll let everyone know what the long term outcome is as well, but I'm very relieved that my tang is back to his gorgeous self, and I hope his recovery is a long term thing.

    Pam
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.