Advice? ich treatment

Try No Sick Fish out of New Hampton Iowa. Learned about them at IMAC in 2004 or 2005. Products work great. Here is the website
Fish ick treatment & Fish ich medicines : NO sick fish
Good Luck from
Tuffy1845

 

One theory that I have that leads to these products success is miss diagnosis. Sometimes you see a white spec on a fish and panic. So you run to your cabinet of reef safe wizzard positions and put in "crypto be gone" check your tank the next day and the white spec is gone. Aquarist thinks "Wow this stuff is awesome. Worked like a charm." Reality, It was a piece of sand stuck to the fish's slime coat.

 

@jayt have you treated them at all on qt?

 

So why is the tank fallow at this point?

Maybe I misunderstand, The tank you have is cycling/established, the fish came from an established third party tank.

You are QTing (as any good reefer who doesnt have hundreds of hundreds of dollars to throw away would) as a precaution. Right?

 

I would use seachem cupramine. I even use it in freshwater despite copper treatments not being the norm with FW. IME it is quite gentle when used as directed, be sure to use a test kit, and once you reach the correct level you don't need to add it unless doing a waterchange. Just do NOT use it with prime, it will convert the copper to the more toxic form.

I when I do treatment I put the fish into a new clean tank that has the cupramine added to it. The idea is that there are no "baddies" in the new water, so you can catch the ich right when it comes off the fish - if any. The TTM uses 14 days, that I what I normally run if adding the fish to a cleaned QT tank. It kills quite a bit more than ich too.

 

GOTCHA! Then yes, in a QT your QT time is 6-8 weeks (8 is on the safe side, but if you keep your QT temps in the 80's 6 is plenty as well as the extra heat will accelerate the Ich biological cycle.) You should be fine after 8 weeks at max if you have not seen any signs form the fish. Keep in mind Ich is an active ciliate protozoan. It doesn't lay dormant per se, but in its actively feeding trophont stage may elongate its feeding for best survivability laying "dormant" as such. Higher temps will, as stated, accelerate this phase.
Keep in mind that if you wish to medicate, aside from annihilation with bleach or a heavily caustic acid, Medications are only effective in the free swimming (tomites/theronts) stage. The tomites'/theronts' metabolism is also temperature-dependent, but they must find a host within a very few days or perish: at 68°F none survived after 55 hours, according to the pioneer expert in fish diseases Wilhelm Schaperclaus. So it stands to reason that at higher temps the life cuycle can be cut short with a fallow tank in only a matter of hours. However with that being said, you still want to wait out a fallow tank through an entire 6 week cycle. The gelatinous thin-walled cyst can't survive being completely dried out, an incentive to let your nets dry out completely, if there is Ich anywhere among your tanks.