Kylie`s 40g Reef Build

Great job! That is one of the nicest homemade stand and canopy I have seen.
-Bill

 

one big one is no rock against the glass. My tank has 4" clearance. 2-3" may seem restrictave in your case, but your water quality will thank you. try to leave open space... the idea is the detritus stays in suspension, and then is pulled out by the skimmer or eaten by corals, etc. Don't let it have dead spots to settle into in the back.

When you are aquascaping, if you get dry rock and use cement (portland cement) you can create structures that defy gravity, and really gets you away fromt he "pile of rocks" that is prone to fall over.

less is more in many cases.../DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/biggrin.gif


So, desing your rockwork thinking of flow and to channel your flow (i think in rip currents that are created by powerheads more than the direct blow from them. three powerheads working together to create a cyclone that around a central island will do more for the tank than 3 powerheads pointed against each other.
check out these threads for ideas that go out of the box.


http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1288059
http://reefbuilders.com/2009/10/29/dsps-1200-gallong-reef-tank-hidef-video-update/

 

Stand and canopy look great.

For aquascape here is my fav! http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1288059

 

The main thing is if you do a pile of rocks, it takes 10 time the energy to get the water flowto keep things clean- and that is the first step to good skimming.

make sure you look at pictures of real reefs too- that is sometimes the best inspiration.

Dont' be afraid of the cement.. in small amounts you can put it in the tank in a few days. the 4 month cure exists if you have the rock 100% out of the cement. if you get the texture close to the rock work, and blend it in- you will have to look hard to see where the cement is in 3 months.

 

Here is mine, this is from octoberish

 

just wondering if u got those uv shields?

 

I can think of 2

1 the paint will chip
2 the pvc will get covered with coraline pretty fast

 

Use the clear primer, not the purple; then don't worry about the drips.  You can buy it at Menards.  I'm pretty particular about how things look and using the clear primer, I'm satisfied with how things turn out without painting.
--AJ

 

I would just paint the plumbing exposed in the tank. Just make sure to let the krylon fully cure. Don't worry about your plumbing outside the tank. If people are worried how your plumbing looks and not looking at the tank then something is wrong /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/wink.gif

 

I used the Krylon Fusion on my Spray bar, has held up fine for the last 4 month or so. I would advise painting your inside plumbing with it, just let it cure like Gered said, but it will look alot better black.

 

i use PVC primer- which turns things purple/ coraline ish. dark purple on 3 coats.

hard to see runs when it is all dark /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/biggrin.gif


i think dark plumbing can be nice- just realize if you do have to shorten pipe in the futue, or splice in sections, or T it, or change anything..... (My plumbing is ALWAYS being tweaked) , the Krylon will make it much harder to get a good seal... For the future expandability I would not use the Krylon.

 

Thought I would chime in about the paint. I have PVC in my tank painted royal blue with krylin fusion. No chipping or issues whatsoever. It has been in the tank for about a year and a half and is pretty much completely covered with coralline. Plenty of people on RC have done the dame thing which is what gave me the confidence to try in the first place.

 

use some pipe wrenches (like in marion brothers!! ahahah) to get them apart...that or channel locks wrenches.

-Justin