need help with basement sump

You should *definitely* drill. If you loose your siphon in the pipe going from the sump to your pump, your whole system stops working. I had no idea that you had not drilled the sump...that should be done ASAP. On the outside of the sump, put a ball valve so that you can service the pump without draining the sump. You should put one above your pump on the return line as well (again, same reason). I'll post a pic soon to show you what I mean.

--AJ

 

Ugh...yeah, that's true with a 55. Well, at least it gives you a sump to use while you work on something else. It's very possible that you have an air pocket built up inside the top of your plumbing that's going over the side of your sump and that the water is grabbing a bit of that air all the time. Eventually, the air will run out and that will probably be the end of the bubbles. Another alternative may be to tap the top of that plumbing and attach a 1/4" Quick Connect fitting and attach a piece of tubing from there to an Aqualifter pump to constantly pump water/air out of the top of that pipe. That's a model that many of the HOB overflows use. To me, that's a temporary option...you really need to drill it. If you want, I have a 3" hole saw that will fit the 1 1/2" Banjo bulkheads available at Thiesens. You're more than welcome to use it, or I can even help you drill the hole. You may be better off drilling a smaller hole and using a Schedule 80 bulkhead. You would use a 65 mm hole saw for that. The ABS bulkhead would require a 60mm hole. Here's some links:
1/4" Thread to Quick Connect fitting:  http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/reverse-osmosis-filters-and-systems/ro-plumbing-fittings/1-4-reverse-osmosis-fittings/strait-male-threaded-1-4-npt-x-1-4-push-connect-murlok.html
1/4" Ball Valve:  http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/reverse-osmosis-filters-and-systems/ro-plumbing-fittings/1-4-reverse-osmosis-fittings/ball-valve-1-4-x-1-4-push-connect-murlok.html
Aqualifter pump (I linked to Amazon due to the better/cheaper options - especially if you have Prime)  http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Lifter-3-5gph-inches-height/dp/B001BOD9JI
ABS 1.5" Bulkhead: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/1-5-abs-bulkhead-thread-x-slip-thread-on-the-flange-head-side.html
Sch80 1.5" Bulkhead: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/1-5-sch-80-bulkhead-thread-x-thread.html
60 mm Glass Hole Saw: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/pumps-and-plumbing/plumbing-sumps-drill-bits-overflows-uniseals/diamond-coated-glass-drill-bits/60-mm-diamond-coated-glass-drill-bit.html
65 mm Glass Hole Saw: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/pumps-and-plumbing/plumbing-sumps-drill-bits-overflows-uniseals/diamond-coated-glass-drill-bits/65-mm-diamond-coated-glass-drill-bit.html
Also, Adam Pottebaum swears by the Uniseals...but personally, I don't trust them. Here's a link and you can talk to Adam more if you want more info on these.
1 1/2" Uniseal: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/1-5-uniseal-bulkhead-alternative.html
--AJ

 

Make sure that your hole is 1 1/2" (I believe that's the intake for that pump) as if you make it any smaller, all you're doing is cutting the performance of the pump and making it work harder than it needs to. Also, consider putting a pre-filter screen on it. Get one that's big enough to make it very difficult to get completely blocked, but holes small enough to keep small things from getting in. I used a large one from Menards (you can see it in the pic of my sump), but that would trap a snail or anything larger than the pump could push through, from getting caught in the pump and stopping it.
Here's a pic of what you should do for ball valves with your return pump.  One on intake, one on output.  These are full union ball valves...you can use just 1/2 union ball valves (available at Lowes) or just a separate union (on the pump side), but the Sch 80 ball valves are a good investment as they will continue to work and close all the way after being in use for long periods of time.  The Sch 40 ball valves will only close part of the way after being in use for a while.
Also, this part is optional, but the platform the pump is on is a height adjustable platform to make sure that the pump is at the right height.  That way I didn't have to worry about precision measurements on where to put the hole.  In your case, that's already taken care of, but might be something to consider.  Finally, with the tarpon, the intake/output housing is larger than the motor and the pump should be mounted on something to give it more room allowing the pump to be mounted level.  The previous owner used a piece of the pink extruded polystyrene.  I just used a board, but it did make it rattle a bit.  The stand I'm using with this motor has rubber feet and cork under the motor so I don't get any extra rattle noise from the motor.
Good luck!

--AJ

 

Glad you figured it out!

--AJ

 

That is true...a good argument for getting bulkheads that are threaded x threaded.

--AJ