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Discussion in 'Introductions' started by John J, Oct 23, 2011.

  1. Oct 23, 2011 #1
    John J

    John J Inactive User

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    Hello girs members! I have been into freshwater all my life and have decided to take the leap into saltwater. Been working with the guys at ACC in Washburn on setting up the new system. Great bunch of guys! 150g tank is on order and still planning the rest. Hope to learn alot from this great site and possibly contibute in the future when I have a "clue" about saltwater keeping. Thanks again for all the info and I hope to meet some of you soon!
     
  2. Oct 23, 2011 #2
    lehrjet

    lehrjet Inactive User

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    Welcome.
     
  3. Oct 23, 2011 #3
    MXC207 Cedar Rapids

    MXC207 Well-Known ReefKeeper

    634
    Cedar Rapids
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    At least your starting out big! Keep us posted on how the build goes, welcome!
     
  4. Oct 24, 2011 #4
    John J

    John J Inactive User

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    Will do! Thanks!
     
  5. Oct 24, 2011 #5
    Pinch & Gonzo

    Pinch & Gonzo Inactive User

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    What are your plans for your 150?
     
  6. Oct 24, 2011 #6
    John J

    John J Inactive User

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    I am going to start it out as a FO tank and its gonna be on the main level of my home. All the filtration is going to be in the basement. The tank has two overflows so I think I am going to build 2 wet/dry systems from 40g breeder tanks (I think they will easily convert to sumps at a later date if I convert to live rock and corals possibly). That way I can always have one running while cleaning the other plus it gives me more gallons and more space for add on equipment. I am planning on either some form of artificial bio or lava rock as the media. Not sure yet. (Any suggestions from members?) One will house a Super Reef 3000 skimmer and the other will house a TMC 1000 fluidized bed filter. I always ran fluidized sand filters on my freshwater tanks and loved em! Trouble is I always used lifguard aquatics brand and they always leaked after a couple years of use so thats why I am trying the TMC on this tank. For a return pump, I am hoping to drill both tanks and return em both with a single Mag 12. Not sure if that will work either as I am having to lift 10' to return back to the display tank. I believe it will but could also use some input from you guys as well on that. As for incoming water: I allready have an RO system for my house and plan on plumbing that to a couple of storage tanks and having another storage tank for premade saltwater. I am not quite sure how to plumb all that to the system as far as floats and valves for the auto top off and water change but hoping I can get some info from you guys on that and what equipment to use. Also, my Ro has no DI on it. Is that necessary for a saltwater system or just for drinking water? Well, I guess that is about all for now. Thanks in advance for all the info!
     
  7. Oct 24, 2011 #7
    Pinch & Gonzo

    Pinch & Gonzo Inactive User

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    Are you planing using both holes in each overflow for drain, then running them all together then through one sump then the other? Or each to a seperate sump then coming together before the return I think two seperate sumps sounds like more trouble then its worth. I think your doubling your chances of somthing going wrong. But thats just me. I would go live rock from the start but again, just me. Look into a Panworld 150ps or 200ps. Rated to handle lots of head pressure, and still give you nice flow through your wet/dry.
     
  8. Oct 25, 2011 #8
    John J

    John J Inactive User

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    Each to a seperate sump then back together for one return. Can you tell me more about the potential problems u think I will have by doing that. I am still planning so any good advice would be appreciated. I will look into those pumps u mentioned! Thanks!
     
  9. Oct 25, 2011 #9
    Bud West Des Moines, IA

    Bud Loves Bacon Website Team Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member Vendor

    8,876
    West Des Moines, IA
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    I think he's just saying simpler is better. Less bulkheads = less chances for leaks. Plus you have to line everything up to connect them, what if one needs to be replaced, etc. Not that it can't be done. As long as you do everything right and they're interconnected below the water line so the levels equalize, you're fine. if you have the 40Bs and they're in good shape, and you were just going to use them because you have them, consider selling them on here and finding a used 75 and do a single sump.

    I don't think you're going to get the flow you want from a mag12 at that head though. I would go with an external pump as suggested. Panworld, Iwaki, Reefflo, Reef octopus are all decent ones from what I've heard. Reefflo and Reef Octopus were recommended as the best when I inquired on here not too long ago.

    http://www.dannermfg.com/instructionsheets/ZG100.PDF

    the mag12 at 10' with a straight shot and 1.5" plumbing return line will yield 600 GPH. After you add in elbows and nozzles, this will drop. Go with 1" return plumbing and it'll cut that by about 30-50%.

    Is the tank reef ready? Pic??
     
  10. Oct 25, 2011 #10
    John J

    John J Inactive User

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    Its an Aqueon 150 with dual overflows along the back glass. 2 holes in each overflow i believe. Tanks isn't here yet so I haven't actually seen it, just diagrams on Aqueons site. I have thougt about a 75g for a sump. Maybe I will look into that further. Wasn't sure I would be able to fit everything in it but if I go with an external pump that would save me some room. My concern with external pumps though is the energy they use. Its hard to find one that doesn't pull a ton of watts. What kind of flow do I really need going back to the tank. I was told the slower the better which makes sense giving the water more time to mix in the sump. Couple hundred gallons and hour tops u think?
     
  11. Oct 26, 2011 #11
    Bud West Des Moines, IA

    Bud Loves Bacon Website Team Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member Vendor

    8,876
    West Des Moines, IA
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    Generally you want your tank water to turn over at a rate dependent on what you keep. 10 turns/hour for soft corals, 20-30x / hr for LPS and 30x/hr or more for SPS. Not all this has to come from the sump/return pump, power heads too. So if you go mid-range, you're going to want to shoot for an overall turnover rate of 3000 GPH in your DT. You could start out lower since you're going FO but you still want waste kicked up and driven to the sump.

    Turnover rate of your sump I guess depends on the filtration method and your powerhead turnover rate in the tank. If you go with higher flow in the sump loop, less reliance on power heads. There is a factor of speed of flow in the sump, too small of a sump and too high of a flow could make microbubbles hard to control, though there's not much proof that those damage anything, they're just not fun to look at.

    As for energy efficiency, on a watt/GPH basis I thought external pumps were better? Guess I haven't looked real close. Keep in mind that external typically induces less heat into the tank and you can achieve much higher head pressure.

    Of course, JMO...
     
  12. Nov 3, 2011 #12
    Actuary Adel, IA

    Actuary Well-Known ReefKeeper

    705
    Adel, IA
    Ratings:
    +145 / 1 / -0
    I had also thought external were more efficient.. but that was just something tucked away in the back of my mind and I'm not entirely sure if that's a tried and true rule. At any rate, you should have more than enough room in a 75g sump for a 150g display. I have plenty of space in my 55g sump with a 180g display and I have a large in sump skimmer, Zeovit Reactor, media reactor for GFO and GAC, pumps to feed the calcium reactor, ATO, etc. I don't think there should be a space issue at all with a 75g sump.
     

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