problem with frag!!

Sponge or it's bleaching? Pics of these things are always helpful.

 

I've seen sponges that look pretty fungal. Best treatment for sponges is taking the frag out of the tank, picking off the sponge, and then letting it sit in the air for a few minutes. If the frag is completely covered, it may be too late /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/sad.gif Sponges also hate high light.

 

I had a sponge recover after being set out of the tank for an hour. Some of them can be quite resilient.

 

Hey did you dip your frags before introduction? This should at a minimum be done in lieu of quarantine. If this looks bacterial then you should be dipping this in an Iodine bath. If it is bacterial and you pick it off it will just come back. Iodine can kill some fungus and bacterial infections.

 

I wouldn't ever assume anything in this hobby. Coral dips are a must. Maybe the club should set up a coral dip table right by the exit door /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/tongue.gif  Although, it's probably something you want to do at home so you can dip and then stick them in your tank to minimize the dip effects.

 

It would be wrong to assign blame on this unless something was done purposefully. Bringing a coral to a swap is very stressful on it and can bring out things that naturally exist. For example, most people think their tanks are free of Ick. The fact is most tanks have Ick but you don't see it until something goes wrong. But if you keep a great tank you won't notice the Ick and you don't see other problems on corals. Bad things exists naturally just like in our own bodies.
So just like quarantining fish you buy you should always dip corals. This is just part of the hobby. Also be aware dipping is not nearly as good as quarantining. Yes, the right thing to do is to quarantine coral as well as fish. But less people do that than even QT fish.

 

Ich is a nasty little bug /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/tongue.gif I'm a firm proponent of QT for all new fish (you would be too if you've ever had to deal with an infestation). Although, it's a common misconception that "all of our tanks have it." It is preventable with strict QT of everything, especially new live rock entering an established display tank system (8 week QT), and 4 weeks for fish (Ich will only live on the fish for 2 weeks at most, killed by copper). Unlike freshwater ich, saltwater ich does not go dormant. 99% of SW ich parasites die in 8 weeks when no fish host is present. The 1% left after 8 weeks have insignificant infectivity.

But back on topic...take a picture, pull it out and dip it, and then stick it back in. I've heard people having good luck with the Kent coral dip. You can mix up your own scheme of Lugol's, furan, etc if you feel feisty.

 

Ah, but rarely do people ever let their tanks sit fallow for 8 weeks since they were newbies and didn't QT. Therefore I do not believe it is a misconception that most tanks have ICH since they have had continuous hosts. This is supported by the number of long time hobbyists that all of a sudden get ICH when something goes wrong.
Yes, but I continuing OT. The point being QT and dipping is a must for long term success.

 

I'd say your coral has a fungal infection. Here's a thread on Reefcentral about removing white fungus from zoanthids.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showt...did=604324

 

I'm halfway through an 8 week QT... /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/tongue.gif

 

Does it look like this:

If so you may want to check out this thread.

http://www.greateriowareefsocie...fault.aspx

 

I wouldn't waste a good coral because of a small issue.