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ro/di

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by gburkart, Dec 3, 2015.

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  1. Dec 3, 2015 #1
    gburkart

    gburkart Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    ok so i disinfected and replaced all filters and membrane as well as di resin.i live in north liberty and the tds out of my faucet reads 924ppm.after the membrane im seeing 23ppm.and oppm after resin.my question on a 100gpd membrane,how often should the 5 filters before membrane last?how often do you backflush?and how long should a membrane last?just looking for some guidlines,thanks
     
  2. Dec 3, 2015 #2
    DNW Jesup, IA

    DNW

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    Prefilter life is going to vary water condition to the filters, i just watch for pressure drop to indicate when they are plugging. most likely the main issue is going to be the charcoal filters life. This is to remove chlorine which will damage most brands of membranes and you can test the rejected water with simple dip strips to see if it is exhausted and leaking chlorine past. Ro membranes usually are around 95-98% rejection rate, i use the TDS out of the ro membrane to judge the life. I always flush the membrane before and after use (about 3 min worth of flushing) and usually about every 90 mins while in operation. This helps keep the membrane from clogging do to build up. I use a three way valve to divert the water to drain while flushing to extend the life of the di resin
     
  3. Dec 3, 2015 #3
    Roman Cedar Rapids, IA

    Roman Experienced Reefkeeper

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    All depends how much water you run through your unit. 23ppm is still way to high after your di resin. If di is new it should read zero or close to it. Membranes will typically last a couple of years and I typically give a visual look at my carbon block filters and such. When you flush it is just the membrane and I usually will flush before I shut supply to it off and when I turn it back on. I don't think it hurts it. Also if you are making a lot of water they say try to flush it somewhere halfway when doing a large batch.
     
  4. Dec 3, 2015 #4
    gburkart

    gburkart Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    ok,thanks.we use this system for drinking water as well,so i guess i'll just do the flush before and after each time i do a water change and watch the tds out of the membrane along with the pressure to know when the pre filters should be changed.
    --- Auto-Merged, Dec 3, 2015 ---
    0 ppm after the resin,23 ppm after the membrane.sorry if my post wasnt clear.
     
  5. Dec 3, 2015 #5
    Roman Cedar Rapids, IA

    Roman Experienced Reefkeeper

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    Sorry seen zero after resin which is what you want. I use spectrapure membranes and filters and quite happy with them . I think my TDS is six or seven after membrane and I have a 99% rejection membrane and 2:1 ratio approximately waste water
     
  6. Dec 3, 2015 #6
    Roman Cedar Rapids, IA

    Roman Experienced Reefkeeper

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    If you are using for drinking water you need to tee off before the di resin because di resin is not rated for food safe applications. And the TDS after the membrane does not have to be at zero for drinking purposes.
     
  7. Dec 3, 2015 #7
    gburkart

    gburkart Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    yeah,i have it split for only drinking ro water.di water tastes bad lol
     
  8. Dec 3, 2015 #8
    Armydog

    Armydog Expert Reefkeeper

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    Holy crap 924ppm thats crazy mine only 144 in Ankeny going into the unit
     
  9. Dec 3, 2015 #9
    gburkart

    gburkart Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    yeah,good clean city of north liberty water lol.my wife wont drink tap water here.
     
  10. Dec 3, 2015 #10
    Armydog

    Armydog Expert Reefkeeper

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    I wouldn't either lol.

    Have you ever tested the water for nitrates?
     
  11. Dec 3, 2015 #11
    gburkart

    gburkart Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    no,but thats a great idea.i shall do that tommorrow.thanks.anything i need to do if there are nitrates in my water?
     
  12. Dec 3, 2015 #12
    Armydog

    Armydog Expert Reefkeeper

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    If it tests high I would report it to the local water plant.

    Does everyone have that High of ppm in that area? Idk thats just crazy high to me
     
  13. Dec 3, 2015 #13
    gburkart

    gburkart Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    i think i talked to a couple people that had it in the 850ppm range.it sucks here water wise
     
  14. Dec 3, 2015 #14
    IneptHero7 Iowa City

    IneptHero7

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    I've heard that North Liberty is horrible for water. In the area of Iowa City I am in; I get water out of the tap at about 80-100 TDS. It's so much better. You could drink it from the tap, though I still use a Brita in the fridge.
     
  15. Dec 6, 2015 #15
    Bud West Des Moines, IA

    Bud Loves Bacon Website Team Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member Vendor

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    When you say "disinfected", exactly what do you mean?

    23 out of the membrane is a problem, IMO. Even with 924 in. in WDM our water is like that sometimes, usually 600-800 but I get <10ppm our of the membrane. I'm concerned that you have a membrane problem.

    As far as changing prefilters, I just go by the color of the #1 prefilter.
     
  16. Dec 6, 2015 #16
    gburkart

    gburkart Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    i read this on a different site "About once a year you should sanitize your entire system - its easy and you'll be done in less than an hour. Here are the instructions:

    We recommend sanitizing your RO/DI system approximately once per year. Schedule this process at a time when you are planning to replace your cartridges. These instructions apply to water purification systems without a pressure tank. Before you begin assure that you have about an hour available, and that your work area and hands are clean.

    Turn off the water supply to the system.

    Remove all housings and remove all pre-filters and post-filters from the system including sediment filters, carbon filters, in-line filters, and deionization cartridges. Remove the reverse osmosis membrane(s).

    Wash housings with a soft brush or cloth in warm soapy water. Rinse thoroughly to remove all soap. Don’t forget to carefully remove and wash all o-rings. Lubricate the o-rings with a small amount of silicone grease and reinstall them.

    Fill each vertical housing with one cup of potable water and three to four tablespoons of household bleach, and with this sanitizing liquid still in the housings, screw them back on to the system.

    Turn on the water supply a bit, allow water to fill the entire system, and assure water is flowing out of the waste line and the purified water line. Place the outlet of the drain tube and purified water tube slightly higher than the system to assure these tubes are full of the sanitizing solution. When the sanitizing solution has reached the outlet of each tube, and with the outlet of each tube placed above the rest of the system, shut off the water supply for 30 minutes.

    After 30 minutes, turn the water supply on and assure that water exits the system from both the drain tube and the purified water port. Flush the sanitizing solution from the system for 5 to 10 minutes.

    Turn off the water supply and install new filters.


    Courtesy of Buckeye Field Supply "

    so i figured it was simple and easy enough and couldnt hurt.
    --- Auto-Merged, Dec 6, 2015 ---
    well this is my second membrane and have gotten similar results from first one......not sure
     
  17. Dec 6, 2015 #17
    Waterrat41 Des moines

    Waterrat41 Addicted Reefer GIRS Member

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    23 after the RO is kinda high. I keep tabs on my particulate filter by noting pressure drop on the gauge. I check the carbon with chlorine test strips, when the carbon is exhausted chlorine will pass through them and show positive on the strip. Mine were lasting about 10 months so I just started changing them at 8. Remember to flush your new prefilters before running the unit and slugging your membrane with carbon dust. You might have something as simple as not enough water purging out of the waste line. I would do a simple waste to purified water ratio check to see if you have the wrong restrictor in or a partially plugged one. Also make sure you are not feeding your system with water that is too warm. If all that checks out you might consider membrane replacement unless the shorter resin life isn't an issue.
     
  18. Dec 6, 2015 #18
    gburkart

    gburkart Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    i checked it again today and after flushing,i'm getting 10ppm after the membrane,i think that is pretty good
     
  19. Dec 6, 2015 #19
    gburkart

    gburkart Well-Known ReefKeeper

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  20. Dec 6, 2015 #20
    Roman Cedar Rapids, IA

    Roman Experienced Reefkeeper

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    I just made 60 gallons of RODI and my TDS was 3 after membrane water psi at 65 and zero after di
     
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