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RO for drinking water

Discussion in 'Off Topic' started by Actuary, May 8, 2012.

  1. Actuary Well-Known ReefKeeper

    705
    Adel, IA
    Ratings:
    +145 / 1 / -0
    I was always okay with the built in carbon filter in the refridgerator when I lived in Des Moines, but the 1,000 ppm TDS coming out of our tap in North Liberty is a bit too much.  Our water smells like chlorine and tastes horrible, so I've decided it is time to install an RO unit for our drinking water as well.
    Rather than add an under the sink system I want to add one to our refridgerator (our ice even stinks). Our utility room (my fish room) is directly below our kitchen and I can see the 3/8" feed line running up to the refridgerator so I'm thinking this should be pretty straightforward but I have no experience with pressurized tanks and refridgerator water lines. 
    Do I essentially just need a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter leading into a new RO unit, a pressure tank, and then another adapter to go from 1/4" back to 3/8"? Is there anything I'm missing? It looks like some people recommend adding a taste and odor removing GAC block after the pressure tank. Any words of wisdom would be appreciated.
    Thanks!
     
  2. Brandon9400

    Brandon9400

    233
    Ratings:
    +1 / 0 / -0
    WOW that is terrible man! my TDS is 165 in CR, Im pretty sure it won the blind taste test in the state.
     
  3. Jamie

    Jamie Well-Known ReefKeeper Vendor

    591
    Ratings:
    +24 / 0 / -0
    No need to add a 2nd RO unit. Why not just tee off the output of your current RO run one line to the fridge and the other to your DI canister for you tank water. Do you run a pressurized tank on it already? if you don't you'll need one. If not their simple to add and less than $50. You'll need to cap the current line that feeds the fridge in the process.
     
  4. Waverz

    Waverz Expert Reefkeeper

    Ratings:
    +5 / 0 / -0
    Very simple indeed, I've been using the same 3.5 gallon pressure tank for 7 years now.  I have it ran from my RO portion of my RODI unit to the pressure tank then from the pressure tank to a dedicated faucet on my sink that is T'd off to to my ice maker.
    The thought of drinking tap water makes me cringe....yuk!
     
  5. Actuary Well-Known ReefKeeper

    705
    Adel, IA
    Ratings:
    +145 / 1 / -0
    I considered running a line out between the ro membrane and the di cartridge as well... it's tempting but I don't plan on keeping my drinking water up to same standards as my reef water. I'm going to perfectly content if my drinking water is at 20 ppm compared to my 1000 ppm tap. So long term I actually think I'll be better off financially if I get a separate unit and run it a bit more lax than I run my reef water. Am I going to need any kind of a pump to push the water up to my refrigerator or is an ro tank alone going to be sufficient?

    Also, how does the tank actually work? Is it me or is there just one connection into the tank?
     
  6. Jamie

    Jamie Well-Known ReefKeeper Vendor

    591
    Ratings:
    +24 / 0 / -0
    Thats completely up to you if you want to run 2 of them. I don't see the need. Regarding your question, the pressure tanks only have one line to them. They have a rubber bladder inside that is filled with a few PSI of air pressure, a 3 gallon tank will be able to store about 2 gallons of RO water. (You can get them in just about any size) The tank will store ready made RO water and should go between your fridge and the RO water out on your unit with a tee connector. This will ensure that you will get about 2 gallons of pressurized instant water before your down to just the trickle of water at your faucet that your unit is actually producing.
     
  7. Bud Loves Bacon Website Team Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member Vendor

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +1,818 / 14 / -0
    If you have a pressure tank in the system you do not want it on your reef system. When you open up to go through the DI and produce good water it will push 2g through in a heartbeat and that water will have higher TDS as the backpressure the tanks make allows more TDS to get through the RO membrane. So yes you would want a separate system. Either that, or have a series of shutoff valves so you can isolate the household system from the RO while you make reef water.

    I have 2 systems and if the household one fails (I had a leak) then I can fill the drinking water with the reef system and shut it off when the tanks get full. Right now our drinking water system has 2 3g tanks, one in the basement (it's like 20 yrs old) and one upstairs under the sink to keep the pressure up for the fridge/icemaker. I run it for about 4 hours every 3 days, otherwise it just sits there and runs up my water bill, of course I could get an ASOV too but I like letting the system drain out, constantly topping it off with high back pressure will let more TDS into the tanks, especially if you get one glass at a time. If you see yourself using a lot of drinking water I would pop for a bigger tank, like a 5g one maybe. Multiple tanks might not hurt.

    Here's mine

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Actuary Well-Known ReefKeeper

    705
    Adel, IA
    Ratings:
    +145 / 1 / -0
    Thanks for all the feedback! I've decided to go with a seperate RO unit for drinking water. I also like the idea of the inline taste and odor carbon filter after the RO tank.

    http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/reverse-osmosis-filters-and-systems/drinking-water-systems-parts/75-gpd-ro-no-di-4-stage-drinking-water-system.html

    It should be here tomorrow and hopefully I'll have no issues getting it running. This is probably the only BRS purchase that I've made that my wife has been excited about.
     
  9. Jamie

    Jamie Well-Known ReefKeeper Vendor

    591
    Ratings:
    +24 / 0 / -0
    That's a lot of valves Floyd, why do you need so many???
     
  10. Jamie

    Jamie Well-Known ReefKeeper Vendor

    591
    Ratings:
    +24 / 0 / -0


    Did you get the quick connect adapters to go from the 3/8" to the 1/4" and back? You would need 2 of them.
     
  11. Actuary Well-Known ReefKeeper

    705
    Adel, IA
    Ratings:
    +145 / 1 / -0
    Yep, that's exactly what I ordered.
     
  12. Jamie

    Jamie Well-Known ReefKeeper Vendor

    591
    Ratings:
    +24 / 0 / -0





    Looks like it should be a pretty simple install then, let us know how it goes. FYI when you cut the tubing do not use a scissors you do not want to crush the ends they need to be clean, straight and burr free to ensure a good seal. A sharp utility knife will do if you don’t have a tube cutter.

     
  13. Bela

    Bela Inactive User

    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    The way I got around buying a dedicated system for drinking water (2.5g pressure tank) is by using a check valve. Yes, they CAN fail, but when they do, it's pretty easy to notice your TDS raising, potentially dramatically. Another really easy way to check the continuity of the valve is to shut your source (tap) water off and see if you are "producing" water. No water should come out the production end unless you have a check valve failure. I had mine for three years, no issues, but decided to replace it just in case.
     

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