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So who has battled ich....and won?!

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Deleted member 120, Feb 15, 2008.

  1. Deleted member 120

    Deleted member 120 Guest

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    I know for most of us the focus is on the amazing corals we can keep and grow, but I have always wanted to have a tank with plenty of fish as well.  The obvious problem with that is in keeping the fish healthy.  I never, repeat NEVER put any kind of medication in my display tank and have repeatedly added fish (with QT period, without QT period - it never seems to matter!) and had things going fine and then one day BOOM!  Ich!
    My question is this.  Can you ever really setup and run a tank with fish that does not have ich in it?  And when it does breakout is there a treatment (other than removal and QT) that works?  I mean I understand the lifecycle of the ich parasite but I swear I have at least twice had fish in my tank for over 6 weeks and they are fine and then out of the blue I get ich.  Frustrating....
     
  2. Guest

    Guest Guest

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    when we first set up our tank our Coral Beauty, Cowfish, and Clown got itch. We moved the three infected fish to a 20 gallon quarantine and, although the tank was only 55 gallons, we were saving our UV filter for a later date, we added it to the sump and turned it on. after 1 month in the quarantine with the copper based meds and after an extremely thorough set of water changes to ensure EVERY last drop of the meds in the quarantine tank were gone, we reintroduce the fish and all was better. No inverts died, we did manage to get all the copper meds out of the water before returning them. The UV light will kill off the waterborn itch, or at least it did for us.
     
  3. phishcrazee Experienced Reefkeeper

    Riverside
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    I've always used a UV sterilizer as well when adding new fish and after they get comfortable in the tank, they;ve never gotten it (crosses fingers). I know some types of fish get stressed very easily though, just moving some rockwork around a bit and bam they have it again /site/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/_default/emoticons/smile.gif
     
  4. Lee

    Lee Experienced Reefkeeper

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    I've had good luck just letting it run its cycle. I hear that the fish are still infected even though they don't show signs of it... Most of my fish are at least 4-5 years old though, so it must not be too life threatening.
     
  5. Anna

    Anna Inactive User

    324
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    I had a heater malfunction, and my clownfish got ich. I fed him twice a day with food soaked in fresh garlic. The ich cleared up within a couple of days (no visible signs on the fish), and he was healthy until he jumped out of the tank.
     
  6. jtesdall

    jtesdall Expert Reefkeeper

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    I had a unfortunate PH spike a few months ago that brought the little buggers out on my clowns, sailfin, puffer an Lion. Don't worry, one system multiple tank, thay aren't in together. But it did bring out Ich in both tank. I pulled the fish into another tank used hypo salinity of 1.09 and fed fresh garlic soaked foods to all fish. I only pulled the fish that showed signs of the parasite. One month of hypo salinity and all fish are doing very well. This was over Cristmas.
    I have done extensive reading on this as many have. I know the parasite is still there and the only way to get rid of it is to remove all fish and run fallow for about two months. I am just not into tearing down the tank. To be honest I think I have had the stuff for years and it just pops its head up when I make a mistake in water params. I also have added a 40W UV, but experts say this won't take care of it since the parasite will has to stay on a host to survive.
    So I would say I have had luck beating it back and saving fish. But it is still there lurking in the dark.
     
  7. acidlittle

    198
    Beaverdale
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    I had Ich and what I thought was velvet. I QT'd all my fish for 4 months (lost a few in the begining due to stupidity on my own part) in super hypo and it cleared up, no medications or garlic food, just Hyposal. I need to start getting some garlic in the foods though....
     
  8. Deleted member 120

    Deleted member 120 Guest

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    Well I have been adding garlic to my food for about three months and it seems to help keep everyone eating and maybe just by eating the fish get healthy. I don't have a UV sterilizer because I thought it was a bad thing to run if you had a true reef. Something about it killing off the "good stuff"... maybe I'll try that next. I really don't want to go the QT route again as it has not been successful for me to this point. I jsut can't seem to get the fish to stay healthy in my QT. Probably because I don't have the tank setup right or something, but never the less frustrating.

    My only other thought is to find someone who is running either a fish only or who has a permanently running QT to treat my fish until they are healthy...
     
  9. JB Veteran Reefkeeper

    Marion
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    My blue tang gets white spots every so often. The first time I got all worked up about it and treated with a cocktail of seachem products (Garlic Gaurd, Metronidazole and Focus) it did seem to get a lot better after I started using the stuff, however, since then I've just let the white spots run their coarse and now they don't show up very often and disappear after a few days.

    I've never seen a single spot on any of my other fish, so I'm not convinced that it's even ich.

    -JB
     
  10. heartben

    heartben Inactive User

    47
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    my tang has had a few cases of some ich like stuff... idk if it was ich or not but it has shown up a few times and goes away easily within a week. i just try to make sure he gets plenty to eat.

    i havent seen it on any other fish either.
     
  11. Deleted member 120

    Deleted member 120 Guest

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    Well I went ahead and bought a UV sterilizer and installed it this weekend. One question...does it matter if you run it in the main display or sump? I put it in the main display thinking that would have a greater impact on the tank where the parasite is living. Make sense or am I "over-thinking" it?
     
  12. heartben

    heartben Inactive User

    47
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    i dont think it would matter. i would put it in the return section of the sump and have the water just go back into the return section.

    its up to you.

    im sure someone will chime in with good advice
     
  13. jtesdall

    jtesdall Expert Reefkeeper

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    From what I have read on UV it shouldn't matter. The biggest argument against UV seems to be that the parasites are not neccesarily free floating and there fore will never enter the UV chamber. There are some good articles on the NET dealing with Salt Water Ich and UV, I would search them out and read them. I decided to put my UV on the sump. Heck that is one of the main reasons for a sump, keep the hardware out of sight.
     
  14. Deleted member 120

    Deleted member 120 Guest

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    Well I think I'll leave it in the display for two weeks and see what happens. You know, if someone would invent a true "reef safe" ich medication I bet they would make a load of cash...
     
  15. calebjk Well-Known ReefKeeper

    300
    Cedar Rapids IA
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    I've had ich come and go in my display tank, i really feel like even if i qt'd my fish and let the tank cook for 2 months, then ich would still find a way and show up the next time something went wrong with my tank.
    There are two things that i have noticed really helped me.
    the first is the logical one that other people mentioned, and that is feeding a lot, kind of like stave a fever and feed a cold. it just gives the fish more of a fighting chance.
    the other is having both a male and female cleaner shrimp. cleaners aren't nearly as active as when they don't have a mate. animals live to eat and mate, and when you take away one it effects the other.

    i also do run a uv all the time on that tank and it still gets ich just the same. i may take it off. one piece of advice i have for you with that uv you got is to do some research before you pick out a pump for it, the slower the water runs through it the more that will get killed, and parasites often require the slowest recommended gph on a uv.
     

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