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sump question

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Anna, Feb 6, 2008.

  1. Anna

    Anna Inactive User

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    We're building a sump out of our 75 gallon tank to run under the new 90.  I was hoping somebody could tell me how thick the glass for the baffles needs to be (I've only built one sump before, and it was much smaller).
    Thanks!
    Anna
     
  2. jvonthun

    jvonthun

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    I would use 1/4"  it should be pretty cheap and easy to come by.  Anything smaller and I'd worry about breaking it while working in the sump.
     
  3. Twill

    Twill Inactive User

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    If you're interested in alternatives, check this out: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Baffles/baffles.htm
    It details a way to install baffles using weather stripping. That way they aren't permanently attached and you can adjust them as your needs change. It also has the added benefit that you don't have to match the baffles to the tank material (glass to glass, acrylic to acrylic). I've enjoyed doing as much of my tank build on my own as possible, so I got a sheet of 3/8" acrylic and cut it myself. (I used a hand tool, but there are power saws you can use if you're impatient /site/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/_default/emoticons/tongue.gif)
    I just finished installing my baffles and will be wet-testing the sump either tonight or tomorrow. If you're interested, I can let you know how it goes.
     
  4. Anna

    Anna Inactive User

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    Let me know how that works, if you don't mind! I actually saw that article once before, and I really like the idea - I was just a bit nervous about putting weather stripping into the tank.

    If we do go with glass, can anybody recommend how to make the silicone look nice? Our first attempt at sump building wasn't exactly pretty, but it held water successfully (which is the most important factor, of course!).
     
  5. Twill

    Twill Inactive User

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    Well, I've got my sump and plumbing all in place. I've noticed that the weather stripping doesn't really have enough pressure to keep the baffles in place. They slowly slide if there is a large difference in water level on the two sides of the baffle. I did my best to cut the baffles 1/4 inch smaller than the internal width of the tank, as described in that article. Perhaps they could've been a little larger, and therefore kept a stronger seal. They seemed pretty easy to slide into place (easier than I was expecting).

    However, with some various lengths of PVC used as spacers, I think I've solved this problem. The water in the sump is now being heated and I'm letting things sit for a bit just to be extra sure. I'm going to take the leap and pull out the plugs and start the pump tomorrow afternoon when I can be here to keep an eye on it for the whole afternoon and evening.

    Unfortunately, my pump is so LOUD! (To me, anyway.) I went with the Eheim 1260 because I was afraid I wouldn't have enough pumping power. I think I may get the next smaller size and see how that works.

    All in all, I'm happy I used this baffle method. It takes a little fine tuning with the PVS supports, but I'm very happy to have this kind of flexibility (besides, the baffles don't need to be perfectly watertight, as long as the tank is and as long as they keep the water flowing in the right direction).
     
  6. Anna

    Anna Inactive User

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    Thanks for the update! Got any pictures?
     
  7. Twill

    Twill Inactive User

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    I'll try to get some pics sometime. My camera soaks up batteries like crazy for some reason, so I have to go pick more up.

    I ran the system today, and the sump itself worked just fine. My overflow/pump is messed up though...I'm going to try a smaller pump and see if that helps. I thought I'd be safe with a larger pump since I have a pipe that I can open up to divert some pump flow back into the sump, but then the water flow through the sump is much too turbulent.

    BTW, I found the weather stripping at Menard's.
     
  8. Deleted member 46

    Deleted member 46 Guest

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    I'd use 1/4" glass too. To get the silicone to look ok you can get the bottles that have the propellant in them to push the silicone out. When applying it push the silicone threw what comes out of the applicator tip. If you drag it it never seems to make an even bead.
    You might want to look into getting a diamond knife sharpener too to fille the glass edges. They are kinda pricey but it beats a bad cut from the glass.
     

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