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Tap water question

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Bela, Feb 24, 2010.

  1. Bela

    Bela Inactive User

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    I was wondering what all of your tap water reads as far as pH os concerned. As you may (or may not) know, I made a bunch of aragocrete dry rock. My pH test kit reads from 7.4 to 8.8. Initially I was using RO water, which reads 7.4 going in and 8.8 coming out after 24 hours. I decided that it may be wasteful to use so much RO every day (would be about 45 gallons I estimate) so I went with tap tonight. I realized that my tap water is reading 8.8 before it even hits the rock, so basically my tap water is 8.8+ I wasn't necessarily expecting the tap water to be identical to the RO water, but I was shocked to see such a high ph and that water. Any idea of this is going to effect my end goal of leaching all the "bad stuff" out of the rock? I was sort of banking on being able to do a water test every night once the water has been in with the rocks for 24 hours in order to get some sort of visual as to when the pH finally starts dropping enough.
     
  2. phishcrazee Experienced Reefkeeper

    Riverside
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    Iowa water is known for being very hard with lots of phosphates and a high pH. Personally, I would use RO water and change it maybe a couple times a week until the pH stabilizes out, which I've read can take like 6 weeks (correct me if I'm wrong there). I think you'd only be adding the junk from tapwater into your rock if you used that and would have algae issues down the road......
     
  3. Bela

    Bela Inactive User

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    I did consider the phosphate issues but then I got to wondering what exactly is in cement anyway? I imagine I have a whole lot to leach out before I need to worry about it absorbing anything? I could be completely wrong. I was planning on using RO water for the last couple of weeks of the process when the leaching is much less rapid, compared to what it looks to be now. I am not sure my thinking is correct on that though. Thoughts?
     
  4. phishcrazee Experienced Reefkeeper

    Riverside
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    If two things are equally full of something, where will product A go or leach to? One needs to be less full of product A in order to take on product A-things want to equal out- its physics and chemistry.  If both your rock AND your water has very high pH, how will the pH be brought down if using water with high pH? Maybe you could experiment with a small batch of the rock and tap water first and see which direction the pH and phosphates go after a week or two?
     
  5. Bela

    Bela Inactive User

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    Well that is what I don't know. Both read high, but all things considered, the PH kit I have access to doesn't really tell me a whole lot. I basically have a range of about 1.5 to toy with. For all I know, the ph of the rock water is actually 10, maybe more. I will say that it does irritate the skin, where just tap water doesn't. I guess a question to ask is what pH should I expect from my water if going in it was 7.0? I will say that visually there is definitely crap coming out of the rock be it sitting in circulating RO water or circulating tap. The self proclaimed chem guy at RC (Randy) said I could just add some vinegar to the water mix to help drop the pH, but he has yet to respond whether I should actually consider doing that or not.
     
  6. phishcrazee Experienced Reefkeeper

    Riverside
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    I would guess the rock water, since you just added the newly made rock, to have a very high pH, probably not on the charts most reefers have in their test kits because cements pH is very high. Yep, plain white vinegar will drop your pH quickly. It would be a guess as to how much and how often you'd have to use though, its not going to hurt your rock or anything like that......Using warm water will also make things happen faster than using cold water. Your best bet would be to use warm RO water with added vinegar, changed a couple times a week. I'm sure Randy will get back to you, he's very good about answering all questions within a day or two /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/smile.gif
     
  7. stew Well-Known ReefKeeper GIRS Member

    519
    Ankeny, IA
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    I'm not a pro on this but I'd agree that you need to keep working with RO water.  Des Moines water starts out at about 9.2 so that's why I eventually had to get an RO unit.  I believer the primary culprit for the high pH in the agrocrete is lime.  It's been awhile since I've been to their web site but GARF (www.garg.org) sells agrocrete and shows you how to make your own.  They may have some words of wisdom to share.
     
  8. Bela

    Bela Inactive User

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    Supposedly it will give a ph of around 13-14 depending on how much leaches out, so tap would work about as well as RO, at least for the removing of the high pH. Guess I just need to decide whether I want to go RO or not with in regards to phosphates.
     
  9. Bela

    Bela Inactive User

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    So I thought I would update here. Apparently adding vinegar to the water to get ph between 6-7 is the way to go. Once the PH rises way back up it is time to do the water change.
     

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