1. Do you have an old account but can't access it?


    See Accessing your GIRS Account or Contact Us - We are here to help!

Troubling conditions of my tank...

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Justin S., Jun 10, 2014.

  1. Zach Well-Known ReefKeeper

    605
    Coralville, Iowa
    Ratings:
    +21 / 0 / -0
    I have an RO unit that we removed to trade up to the RODI unit that it replaced. You can add an inline DI unit to it for around 35 bucks. Would come with a 2 gallon storage tank. Its a Watts premium unit. I think for your tank size it would work great. Just couldn't keep up with our volume anymore.
     
  2. Justin S. Well-Known ReefKeeper

    436
    Pleasant Hill
    Ratings:
    +3 / 0 / -0

    I admire these little inhabitants, should I puff some cloudy stuff from a little bowl of brine shrimp onto them to feed? And since I'd like to keep them are the conditions of my tank / adjustments more likely to kill them than anything else? I will likely need to move them while drilling my tank tomorrow maybe even remove that rock from the tank, is it ok for them to travel through it air as I grab the rock momentarily to sit it in a bucket or not? I'm excited to see good things happening.. I was becomming quite dispointed until now.





     
  3. Zach Well-Known ReefKeeper

    605
    Coralville, Iowa
    Ratings:
    +21 / 0 / -0
    Supernate (that cloudy stuff) would be better suited for smaller inhabitants, I think these guys would be happier with some of the brine shrimp itself! But either way they would eat it.
    I think conditions are not as radical as originaly thought. I would still contact jazzybio13 and stop by for a water test to double check,

    As with any corals its safer to remove them without exposing them to air. I doubt a quick trip will kill it, and a fair shake will help to drive them to retreat as much as they can.

    Look to this as a base line for now, Its about the same price as an API set.

    http://www.amazon.com/Red-Sea-Marine-Care-Master/dp/B008DI5YW0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1402476076&sr=8-2&keywords=red+sea+test+kit

    And once the reefing starts add on this
    http://www.amazon.com/Red-Sea-Reef-Foundation-Test/dp/B004FUJ5NE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1402476115&sr=8-1&keywords=red+sea+test+kit
     
  4. Fence13 Experienced Reefkeeper

    Des Moines
    Ratings:
    +300 / 1 / -0
    I'm assuming your die off could have been do to shock of adding the new live rock to a tank with different parameters. Did you acclimate the live rock before you added it to the tank? From the above, everything seems to be moving okay now (within reason, again). Just take your time and try not to do anything drastic very quickly.
     
  5. Kpotter2 Expert Reefkeeper

    North liberty, IA
    Ratings:
    +7 / 0 / -0
    Great help here Zach. Keep it up and I might add that a small tank is one of the hardest to keep. You have too keep on the maintenance so much more, because you don't have a big body of water. I started with a 29gal standard tank and did well, but had too keep on the water changes and maintenance, but after the first 30day i too had an algae issue not much less then you have. In most cases if your water parameters are on track its just nature taking it course. I have read most of your posts on your testings and findings. It seems to lead me to just plain old new tank normal stuff. Some times as a new person to saltwater we tend to over react at the first thing that changes or what we think looks bad, but maybe just normal balancing of the tank. After we panic and make too many changes at once we then ask questions. Remember never over react and always do your research as you seem to be doing for the most part. If you don't you may do more harm then good. Sending it farther into in balance. Saltwater is all about balance and as long as its balanced most of the parameters mean nothing. I know contradicting, but seems to be true from what I have learned. I have been doing Freshwater keeping and breeding for over 20 years before I started my Saltwater and its easy to get a fresh water balances, but in saltwater it can be tricky if you mess with your tank a lot or try starting out with a small nano tank.

    Just keep on going you will survive to enjoy this great hobby and forget all about the pains of growing.

    KP
     
  6. Justin S. Well-Known ReefKeeper

    436
    Pleasant Hill
    Ratings:
    +3 / 0 / -0
    What do you say is a sufficient body of water allowing someone to keep a stable reef tank?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 24, 2015
  7. Zach Well-Known ReefKeeper

    605
    Coralville, Iowa
    Ratings:
    +21 / 0 / -0
    I will always tout stability over chasing a number, you can keep fish in 1.021 water and they will live for years, is it ideal? No, but if it is stable they will do all right ( I don't suggest this at all BTW)

    The smallest tank I have kept was a 20 long, and it was difficult. For starters I would suggest a 20 long with a canister filter to learn about water chemistry and how things work in the marine aquarium... Once you don't kill things upgrade to a 40 breeder. I personally will not own a DT a smaller than a 40 breeder just because of dimension for aquascaping.. Once you start getting lower than a 40 breeder the tanks just look like rock walls. And a 55 is right out. Terrible DTs good sumps.

    The average reef tank for a new reefer lasts about a year. Maybe two if you are REALLY patient. But at that point, you have learned enough about the hobby to know that you want to change a good deal of things in your tank from substrates to rockwork to layout. At this point, is when you should upgrade to a larger tank and keep all your old equipment.

    Long and short of it, the best way to stabilize is volume. Our 40b DT is ~130 gallons system. The 75 DT which looks at about 120 System wide A sump is a great way to add on another 20 gallons or so. and usually pretty quick and easy to get going. Our 33 long frag tank is... About 85-90. My QT is our smallest system at 20 tall with an additional 36 gallons so around 56 in total.

    I dont think there is a 'minimum' that I would consider in my book you can have a 5 gallon DT if you want a micro reef, and have 40+ gallons in volume. The consensus of most people are floating around 20% of DT size for sump as a starting spot. But the more volume you can add the longer it takes for things to swing from could be an issue to tank death.
     
  8. jazzybio13 MBI Breeder

    718
    Ames
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    I think that is well said Zach, your ending statement there... there really isn't a minimum volume and if you want a 5g pico display reef you better know what your getting into! I personally have kept everything from a 1g (freshies) 14g (reef) on up to a 90g (and seemingly everything in between) and 20% volume of tank is a good starting place for a sump as well. The larger volume of water allows a greater room for error, this is particular useful to new folks just starting out on a reef (well heck, any tank for that matter).

    I typically recommend someone who wants to start out, but not too large to go with a 40 breeder if they can, if not that then a 29 but I typically don't suggest much lower...
     
  9. Kpotter2 Expert Reefkeeper

    North liberty, IA
    Ratings:
    +7 / 0 / -0
    My 220 I have a 40breeder for a sump.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 24, 2015
  10. Justin S. Well-Known ReefKeeper

    436
    Pleasant Hill
    Ratings:
    +3 / 0 / -0
    I inherited 2 fish, 10 gallons of water and about 10lbs of rock from somebody a couple days ago & have had them in my 10, initial tests showed everything was fine, anyways last night I had to pull them out of the tank because the nitrates and nitrites skyrocketed, which seems to suggest that I was misled to the idea it was all cycled. Skyrocketed after only 2 days.
    So this leads to my question, should I start dropping some of this nitrate laden water very slowly over several days into my 30 with the 29g sump (holds 20) so as to get it going? Or am I way off track? There's no fish in the 30.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 24, 2015
  11. Zach Well-Known ReefKeeper

    605
    Coralville, Iowa
    Ratings:
    +21 / 0 / -0
    Whats the status of the 30 now? No fish, but what have the levels looked like recently?

    Nitrate spike is alright, Nitrite spike not alright. Water changes will help to bring down the nitrites for the fish, which will keep them alive, but putting it into the sump/tank will not do any good. In fact it would probably lead to trouble.

    Remember the water column is relatively vacant in terms of biofiltration bacteria but full of the chemicals that they feed on. Adding in freshly mixed salt water from the sump at the same temp as the tank (or darn near) is your best bet. Adding volume will never hurt a tank unless the water is different parameters and done very quickly. A water change in the tank, and saltwater mixed at the same time into the sump will be the best way to go. I recently added 55 gallons to my current 40 set up and the only thing I was weary of was the shear volume of the increase being greater than the system volume, making sure it would not shock the system. To prevent this I did a water change on the 40 (Roughly 35%) and then added the water from the new reserve tank in slowly over two days.

    I know it is difficult, but remember that nothing good comes fast in salt.
     
  12. Justin S. Well-Known ReefKeeper

    436
    Pleasant Hill
    Ratings:
    +3 / 0 / -0
    Let me make sure I understanding the recommended procedure which I would carry out later today:
    1.) Test water in the 30
    2.) Make sure all new water is the same temp & salinity as is current by mixing in buckets & heating several hours prior to addition
    3.) Conduct ~35% water change on 30
    4.) Fill new sump with water & connect to 30
    5.) Pray everything doesn't go wrong! Lol
    Gosh one would think that after having had saltwater in the past and never having such problems getting going that this time around would not be as difficult as it has been! Your right, nothing good comes fast!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 24, 2015
  13. Justin S. Well-Known ReefKeeper

    436
    Pleasant Hill
    Ratings:
    +3 / 0 / -0
    [​IMG]
    First live brittle starfish I've seen since the majority died off..
    I'm about to do a 35% change before I connect to my sump. My fingers are crossed!
    My test last night was: Nitrite, Nitrate, and Ammonia still read 0... My pH dropped to 7.4 and my Salinity was 1.024. Temp is steady at 80 degrees.
    Additionally:
    Does anybody have experience with the "Real Seawater" from Petco? How about Kent Purple Tech? I'm having trouble getting algae going...
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 24, 2015
  14. Justin S. Well-Known ReefKeeper

    436
    Pleasant Hill
    Ratings:
    +3 / 0 / -0

    I'd like to follow up on this since its been over 3 weeks now:

    Two weeks ago, I emptied my 30 gallon tank out and placed all rock and all the water, and all the sand I could save into a tub and sand into a bucket with a powerhead and heater in both, I maintained the temp at 81. During the first week in the tub: salinity got up to 1.03 and there was an algae bloom (Green Hair). Since I emptied the 30 two weeks ago I have made system changes: I have about 100 gallons in my system now: Using a 29g sump I've linked my 30 to a 29, a 10, and a 5. Last weekend: I mixed 80g (Min amt to run system) of new saltwater at 1.027, started my system, stabilized the temp at 84, and added a Tomato Clown and 3 Stripped Damsel. Over the course of a **full week**, I've drip acclimated the tub to 1.027. Last night I added all the rock that did not have coraline algae to my 30, I've kept the rock with coraline algae (beautiful!) in a bucket at 84. I'm being especially careful with this! My reason for special care is this: I still cannot get a good grip on pH. Last night I tested my systems water: Nitrate: trace Nitrite: 0 Ammonia: 0 Alkalinity: Good and lastly pH: 7.4 - 7.8 (hard to read). Bucket: Nitrate: Trace Nitrite: 0 Ammonia: 0 Alkalinity: Good and pH ~7.8 to 8.2. I don't want to add buffer because its not a long term solution and also because I can't get a good read on pH in the first place, but I know its low.

    I'm very frustrated with my API test kit because its so hard to read. Can anybody suggest a good pH test kit? I'm thinking of getting a digital pH meter, any suggestions? Any questions on my setup or thoughts on my pH in general?
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.