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Advice? uneven tank

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by jayt, Nov 23, 2015.

  1. jayt Well-Known ReefKeeper

    329
    Harpers Ferry, IA
    Ratings:
    +23 / 0 / -0
    Got my stand back and put my 210 on top. Tank measures 7' x 2' I have a gap in the back corner. Stand is almost perfectly level, but when I run a level along the top of the bottom frame it's showing high and low spots. The gap is 1/8th inch at the biggest point, runs the whole 2 feet to the front which is in the stand and runs 3 feet along the back before it touches. What are your guy's suggestions to either fix or put under the frame?
     
  2. Ray/Jen_Reefin 2016 Vice President / 2015 Volunteer of the year.

    Davenport, IA
    Ratings:
    +459 / 5 / -0
    What we did Cuz of a slab home we used a bit of water in the bottom of the tank and used it as a level. That expensive u want a true reading water don't lie. And it is level as can be. Looks great! I have used a level and the tank was way way off. Just my experience.
     
  3. jayt Well-Known ReefKeeper

    329
    Harpers Ferry, IA
    Ratings:
    +23 / 0 / -0
    I need to figure out what to do with the gap between the tank and stand. So it doesn't crack when filled
     
  4. Ray/Jen_Reefin 2016 Vice President / 2015 Volunteer of the year.

    Davenport, IA
    Ratings:
    +459 / 5 / -0
  5. Bud Loves Bacon Website Team Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member Vendor

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +1,818 / 14 / -0
    Is the floor under it level? What kind of stand is it, meaning, what type of construction? This to me is a big concern because I've been on the the bad side of this issue and now I have a big bar clamp on my tank.

    Pictures would really help
     
  6. Bud Loves Bacon Website Team Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member Vendor

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +1,818 / 14 / -0
    No, not on a rimmed tank.

    Is it glass, acrylic, rimmed, rimless, etc
     
  7. jayt Well-Known ReefKeeper

    329
    Harpers Ferry, IA
    Ratings:
    +23 / 0 / -0
    All 2x6 frame with 6, 4x4s. Glass tank
    --- Auto-Merged, Nov 23, 2015 ---
    The stand is almost perfectly level. At least the best I can tell with a 2' level
    --- Auto-Merged, Nov 23, 2015 ---
    The gap. 1/8th 3 foot along the bank all the way to the front
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Bud Loves Bacon Website Team Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member Vendor

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +1,818 / 14 / -0
    Yeah you need to remedy that. Your top bar is not completely flat and even. Is your top screwed/glued down to the 2x6 frame top members? Likely, the top members are not planed flat and level (which is a bit difficult to get perfect)

    If you can disconnect the top panel and plane a bit off the 2x6s, or add shims between the top of the 2x6s and the flat top to bring it into full contact, that's what you need to do. Bottom line is that you need full contact with the bottom trim/frame all the way around.

    You can also just add shims under the tank as you have it (between tank and stand) but that will be visible, obviously. I use cedar shakes, $15 for a huge bundle at Menards, which will be various thicknesses including paper thin
     
  9. GoodGreef Well-Known ReefKeeper

    681
    Clive, IA
    Ratings:
    +239 / 2 / -0
    Best thing I can think of is to sand or plane the higher parts of the top so they drop to the level of the low spot.

    *Ah Bud beat me to it. What he said. haha.
     
  10. jayt Well-Known ReefKeeper

    329
    Harpers Ferry, IA
    Ratings:
    +23 / 0 / -0
    Stand is secured and finished. And actually very level. There's no way to rip it apart and shim it with out putting a gap on a side panel and causing more work. I have no issue with putting shims under the bottom rim as long as that's a good fix.
    --- Auto-Merged, Nov 23, 2015 ---
    The rest of the tanks sits flush on the stand. Just those couple feet where the gap slopes up to the corner
    --- Auto-Merged, Nov 23, 2015 ---
    Just tried to shim a corner. No go. Lol. Stand was build to hold. If it's appropriate I'll rip down a board and make a custom shim to fill the gap
     
  11. Bud Loves Bacon Website Team Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member Vendor

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +1,818 / 14 / -0
    Well since it's a glass tank, there are a few possibilities here:

    - the rim of the tank was not siliconed in just right and it's actually pushed off the tank everywhere except that one area (where the trim IS in full contact with the tank)

    - The stand looks like it is perfectly flat, but it's not. The tank is though.

    One way to see is to put the tank on a flat concrete pad like a driveway or garage, etc. Then you will know which one is telling you the truth.

    Either way, I think the answer is to shim it. If you want to cover that up, then get some quarter round and match it up maybe?
     
  12. jayt Well-Known ReefKeeper

    329
    Harpers Ferry, IA
    Ratings:
    +23 / 0 / -0
    Because of where the tank is going your only going to see the side. And the average Joe will never notice the shim. Since I can adjust either item I'll make a shim to fit. Thanks again
     
  13. abower Well-Known ReefKeeper

    466
    Ryan, Ia
    Ratings:
    +74 / 1 / -0
    Tossing this out. If you or someone you know has a quality table saw and can make precision cuts. It is best to fabricate your 2x6 or 4's with plywood. Just woodglue the laminations and toss screws in it to clamp together. The plywood is far more flexurally stable than the solid lumber and the deminsional plumber's widths varry +/- an 8th or so. I believe this could be the issue your having.
    The heavy moisture summers and bone dry winters keep solid lumber constantly on the move, bows, twists, etc.

    If anyone in the CR/Manchester area would like to see mine or help with their build toss me a message. I do have a build thread somewhere in the photo section.

    Added note. Don't use large plywood panels without internal bracing. The plywood will bow across the face from moisture without something to hold it secure.

    Never use MDX or OSB or "horse **** board"
     
  14. cameron lake Well-Known ReefKeeper

    634
    Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +129 / 3 / -0
    if you can take your tank off put foam bored under it it and it will be dead nuts level when you add water two it ive done this with all my tanks.
     
  15. Bud Loves Bacon Website Team Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member Vendor

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +1,818 / 14 / -0
    This is not correct - you should never, ever put a rimmed tank on a full sheet of styrofoam. The reason is that the trim is not designed to be supported anywhere but the very bottom. The styrofoam compresses and puts pressure on the glass bottom of the tank, which will crack it. This is especially the case if you have a tank with one or more center braceslike a 75, 90, 120, etc, but it's equally the case with a smaller tank like a 40B. I've seen this happen many times (online).

    That being said, if you have no other reasonable chioce but to use foam, you need to cut it so that it is only in contact with the bottom (perimeter) of the tank frame. Either in narrow strips or one big square that is hollowed out.
     
  16. cameron lake Well-Known ReefKeeper

    634
    Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +129 / 3 / -0
    i did not know that and i have only done this with tanks that have rims if you need shims i got thousands from when we finished my basement.
    --- Auto-Merged, Nov 24, 2015 ---
    my 120 sits on pink foam bored and is just fine.
     
  17. Bud Loves Bacon Website Team Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member Vendor

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +1,818 / 14 / -0
    If you put a rimmed tank on a stand that only supports it by the perimeter, like most stock stands, then you're probably OK because the foam isn't supported directly under the center brace so it doesn't push up the full span of that brace - but it does, a bit, at the point where the center brace meets the perimeter. Don't go tearing your tank down to fix it, just don't do it again. Rimmed tanks are not designed to be supported like that.

    If you put a rimmed tank on a flat plywood surface with foam on top, IMO you're asking for disaster but that usually happens shortly after you set it up. Rimmed tanks, especially with a center brace, are not designed to be supported across the center brace with upward pressure. They are designed to distribute the weight of the tank and contents to the perimeter. When the weight of the tank pushes down into the foam around the edge it compresses most easily here, and then the foam pushes up on the center brace, which can crack out the bottom panel.

    The braces are only there to keep the trim from popping outward. I've put a 40B on foam but that was because it was sitting on my basement floor which is sloped for drainage, plus a 40B only needs support on the 4 corners and it not heavy enough to compress blue foam (and it has no center brace).

    Blue or pink foam board doesn't compress easily so that's the saving grace, but that also means that when it does compress around the edges, it could push up with more force in the center.

    White styrofoam compresses very easily and would push up a little more evenly but that's just as bad, and if the tank is heavily loaded (or large, the larger the tank, the higher the compression with just water in it) then you get into pushing up on the glass by the foam as well.
     
  18. Waterrat41 Addicted Reefer GIRS Member

    298
    Des moines
    Ratings:
    +147 / 1 / -0
    I had the same issue with my 90G, I shimmed it with some stacks of thin plastic of unknown origin, like off of blister packaging. I had a fear that a wood shim would compress over time or be effected by water and loose support. So far so good after about 2 yrs ;)
     

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