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Update on new tank/Thanks for the advice!

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by StormyMoe, Aug 18, 2016.

  1. StormyMoe

    134
    Waukee
    Ratings:
    +50 / 0 / -0
    Awhile back I asked for some help on setting up my first SW tank and thought I'd update everyone on my progress. The information and advice I got from all of you was extremely helpful, so a big thank you! I took your advice and bought a RODI filter, and am very happy I did, though I did end up going with a sumpless tank (sorry!). Here is my equipment:

    65 gallon tank
    Reef Octopus 1000-HOB Protein Skimmer
    Jebao PP-4 (previously RW-4) x 2
    Aquatop 200W heaters x 2
    165W LED lights x 2
    55lbs live rock (mostly dry but seeded with some live rock)
    60lbs sand (started with 40lbs but added more to make sure the wrasse was comfortable)
    15 gal QT tank (free from a coworker after tank was already setup)

    The tank has been running with fish, after a fishless cycle, for a couple of months now and I currently have 2 ocellaris clowns (bought as a mated pair), and a melanurus wrasse a few days out of QT.

    A few lessons learned in case anyone else is out there looking for information:
    1. The Reef Octopus BH-100 protein skimmer is a little bit cheaper, but the pump is inside your tank while the 1000-HOB has it outside. Found this out after I purchased the BH-100 but thankfully I was able to return it for the 1000-HOB.
    2. I wouldn't recommend using PH boosters(probably a "no-duh" in hindsight but I had used them in freshwater tanks before). I used the API 8.2 (or something like that) because I was sitting about 7.6 and, while it raised my PH, it also skyrocketed my KH to 23! According to the test kit it should be in the 8-12 range. I've managed to get this down to 17 with water changes but I've got a little ways to go yet.
    3. If you're in the Des Moines area, Iowa Petfood and Seascapes on 22nd in West Des Moines has also been extremely helpful with any questions I have. I found forums to be great resources, but I appreciate being able to talk to someone face to face.
    I don't have any coral yet, partly because of my KH level, but primarily because I just got my LED lights yesterday. My goal is to have all of my levels in check in time for Fall Fest! I haven't fully decided on corals yet, I like things that move back and forth but will likely end up with zoas somewhere.

    Overall I am REALLY enjoying the hobby and love sitting by the tank with a drink and watching everything to relax at the end of the day. My biggest enjoyment though is watching my 3 year old become entranced at what the clowns, Elle and Nemo, and the wrasse, Marlin, are doing.

    I've attached a terrible quality pic of the tank after putting the new lights on. Still playing with the white and blue levels to get the perfect mix. Problem is I love the way the blue makes the makes the clowns stand out, but they hide the wrasse (lower left of pic above small rock).
     

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  2. blackx-runner Administrator Website Team Leadership Team

    Cedar Rapids, IA
    Ratings:
    +738 / 5 / -0
    Sounds like your off to a great start. Just keep taking things slow, keep up with tank maintenance and you should hopefully have good success with your tank.

    pH levels were brought up recently in another thread and the advice is usually not to "chase" it, and exactly for the reason you found out. The additives that raise the pH cause swings in other parameters that will cause even bigger problems than the pH itself.
    CO2 scrubber, skimmer intake to fresh air, plenty of surface turnover are some things to try to raise the pH without messing up anything else. I know of a lot of people that just leave things be for the most part and run their tanks 7.8-8.0 pH and everything gets along just fine. Stability is more important than "optimum" parameters.
    As you get into systems with a lot of corals that will utilize the Alk, Ca then you can use Kalk, or a 2 part dosing system that will raise pH and hold those other parameters where they need to be for stony corals. But on a new tank, unless it is way out of whack for some reason, I would just let it run where it runs.
     
  3. StormyMoe

    134
    Waukee
    Ratings:
    +50 / 0 / -0
    Thanks blackx-runner. Shortly after I posted this thread I saw all of the recent pH discussions as well. My low pH was before fish and protein skimmer but once I added the skimmer it runs about 7.8 so I'll just leave it be. I was directed to Seachem's 2 part dosing system by the LFS, any strong feelings out there towards that compared to Kalk? What about salt? I bought a box of the Instant Ocean but sounds like Reef Crystals does a better job of helping to maintain proper levels.
     
  4. blackx-runner Administrator Website Team Leadership Team

    Cedar Rapids, IA
    Ratings:
    +738 / 5 / -0
    Until you get stony corals in there that need and use the alk and Ca I would just stick to instant ocean and regular water changes. IMO No reason for 2- part dosing until you are actually test the tank and see that your levels of alk and Ca are being depleted by the corals faster than water changes can keep up. Then you can look at doing something that supplements those elements the tank is using.
     
  5. StormyMoe

    134
    Waukee
    Ratings:
    +50 / 0 / -0
    Great thank you!
     
  6. B_Braz

    B_Braz Well-Known ReefKeeper

    375
    Ratings:
    +106 / 1 / -0
    How is this set up coming? Let's see some new pictures and tell us how the last few months have been.
     
  7. StormyMoe

    134
    Waukee
    Ratings:
    +50 / 0 / -0
    Things are moving along nicely albeit with a few minor speed bumps! My corals (2 zoas and a candy cane) recovered from the alkalinity spike I inadvertently put them through a couple of weeks ago and are close to their permanent homes (epoxied down the candy cane today actually). I'm still trying to move the zoas around slightly as they're not fully opening up like I'd expect, though I see each of them has new polyps in the month I've had them. I'm not sure what the orange zoa is but it looks like a bam bam (seller told me it wasn't) and the other is a rasta.

    About a month ago I added a media reactor and have been running GFO; wish I would have done that sooner as it took care of the dino problem I had been battling in about a week. All of my parameters have been looking good with testing every 7-10 days or and weekly water changes in the 5-7% range.

    Except for the corals I haven't added any new livestock since I was fighting first cyano and then the dinos but now I feel I've got a grasp on everything I set my QT up and am hoping for a deal on some fish from the LFS on Small Business Saturday(they were advertising today when I was there). I'm hoping to add more coral over the next couple of weeks as well; thinking maybe a torch or a hammer, something that'll move with the water flow.

    Outside of the tank I setup a storage container to mix my water in, I had previously had some 5gal containers I'd mix and heat before putting it in, and that has been a huge help. Simple DYI job with large tote, bulkhead, and water spigot from the hardware store with a heater and powerhead has definitely made maintenance a lot easier.

    A new RODI unit is at the top of my Christmas list! While battling the cyano and dinos, looking for a cause, I discovered the unit I have is actually only RO and not RODI. I saw some other posts that BRS is having some sales right now so I need to look and maybe get myself an early present. :)
     

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  8. StormyMoe

    134
    Waukee
    Ratings:
    +50 / 0 / -0
    And in looking through the previous comments on this thread I could have totally avoided the alkalinity spike had I remembered what @blackx-runner@blackx-runner told me back in August!:whistling::headwally:
     

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