Water flow and sump design. What turnover is optimal?

With a 135, I would look at an overflow box on each end and forget about the HOB filter. The sump will do a better job plus it will make the tank look cleaner. Go with a Mag 12/18 with a Y split in the center of tank. An 18 would put you into the right range. Also take a look at getting a couple korilla for the dead spot areas to reduce the red algae potential. Just my 2 cents

 

for a tank that size i would definatly NOT use a siphon.. I have seen many of them either go out, or nearly go out- even with aqualifter style pumps (equip failure.. or algae/ detritus clogging the suctuion line.. very easy to have happen

There are many people in the club who can help you drill your tank including myself.. or you can purchace a kit your self. glass holes . com i believe is ok for cheaper glass drill bits. make sure it isn't tempered.

ALSO for a 1" bulkhead.. don't rely on more than 300 gph flow per 1" bulkhead, and always have at least 2 drains. they can put 900 out. how many things do you want to leave up to Murphey's law, and how loud do you want your tank to be?


also, FWIW I believe sump size/ skimmer size has as big of a role...
my rule of SUMP turnover is how much your skimmer can process, and definatly no more.. less is probably ok. I think a Mag 5-7 might be enough... unless you are pumping up a flight of stairs (I use a mag 7 as a return on my 185, when the second backup pump goes in- a lot of that flow will be diverted)

Nucca said good things.. but remember.. flow turnover is a random saying kinda like watts per gallon - its so vague it doesn't really work well. I think it depends on your rock work, type of flow, flow direction... and more importantly your corals needs. if you are cramming in LR you will need a LOT more flow than an open scape. As your corals grow you will need more.

So, help us help you. What type of livestock will go in? how much rock, will it be stacked against a wall? (please don't) unless your coral is getting ripped or sand bed turned updisedown.. more gentle dissipated flow is always better.

 

glad to help.
i didn't realize it was all running...   that pump looks like it is border line... you might be perfect.. might have to raise your sump up on a table..     water level in sump to celing height+ subfloor height+ water level height above floor + drag for plumbing..   then on this chart (in GPM)

if you have normal basment celing height- you are fine it looks like..   you can always raise the sump on a stand if you have to.
  

 

Another thing to consider is what is being mentioned on another thread at this time about acrylic rods. You can actually drill the rock and insert the rods so they will be touching the glass instead of the rock. This will also allow for water flow behind the rock and not create dead spots and also allowing you to rockscape on a more vertical angle. When looking at the sump as well, make sure that you have backup protection in place in case of power outages so the water doesn't just dump on the floor in your basement. A smaller sump under the tank, might be a better way to go.

 

Don't forget about the water in the to/from lines to the sump. A 1" pipe will hold wuite a bit of water for a 7' drop as well as a 3/4" line returning from the pump. I always like to overbuild my ideas just in case. It is great that you are asking b/c it makes everyone learn more, you and me both. It allows you to have someone play devils advocate. I am not a big fan of the shut-off valve to stop flow after two of my failed after a year and a half of use. They are a good idea though, just have to test them frequently to make sure they still work. I didn't and got wet.

 

glad to hear you are thinking of the siphon issue..

Siphons... lets just say... they havea way of trapping air when you arn't home after running for 12 months and givign you confidence.

I think it was anthony calfo ??? tht said if is between doign a sump w/ a siphon and no sump- to take the no sump.

if we can drain off your tank to a tempoary holding for an hour (local club people helping find containers?.. drilling it is pretty easy...... reall really insanly easy, as long as it is't tempered..

if you drill at the top of the back side.. you won't even have much water weight on it for it to leak... and no unsightly overflow box underneath. you can plumb it with simple pvc elbows in a "makeshift" overflow box. If you want the freedom... takign thigns out and drilling, especially when youa re already moving rock around- might be the easiest long term solution.

 

So how do you know if the tank has tempered glass?

 

if it is a 135, the sides are likely not.
one way is to shatter the pane when drilling..
 
a better way is to check date and make of the tank- do some googling and see the tank records..
now, Perefecto was bought out recently... and they really don't have any clue on anything.. some were some wern't.. aga/ aqueon and others you can get a little closer on.
the other way, which I have not tried myself, is to take a polorization lens and look at the glass- it suposidly has a grid you can see if it is tempered.... I would test it on glass known to be tempered first... before drilling.

 

I am going to have to try that out about the polorized glasses. Wish I knew that before my 75 shattered...oops! Learning stuff every day!