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Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Reeferforlyfe, Mar 18, 2012.

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  1. Mar 19, 2012 #21
    mthomp

    mthomp Inactive User

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    Hey Mike didn't you say you saw some flatworms in your tank
     
  2. Mar 19, 2012 #22
    Reeferforlyfe

    Reeferforlyfe Inactive User

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    Yes, but they are NOT the ones that eat acropora. They have two lobes, not three, and they're white, not red. The six line is doing a great job eradicating them since I stopped feeding him.

    If that was the case all my acro would be suffering, not just a couple
     
  3. Mar 19, 2012 #23
    Bud West Des Moines, IA

    Bud Loves Bacon Website Team Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member Vendor

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    I had a good discussion with a hydroponics guy that is developing an LED fixture for reefbuilders, and they had a guy do an experiment comparing growth results obtained from different mixtures of LEDs. Their results were that the only, and I mean ONLY, spectrum that corals need to grow is Royal Blue 455nm. He said that the growth compared to all other combinations was a slam-dunk. The conclusion he came to was basically that the addition of any other light contributed minimally to growth in comparision, and that it was really only for aesthetics (our eyes). So if you're cranking the white up so that it 'looks good' that is a mistake. Aside from all the stuff this hydro guy told me, I recall reading thread after thread (before I even heard this from the hydro guy) about people switching from MH/T5HO to LED and cooking out their corals, and the over-use of white is likely the primary reason. Blue light may not look that intense to us but to the coral it is more intense than the white.

    Also if you had everything growing good in the light you were giving them and the food you were feeding, then you backed way off on the food and left the light the same, I believe (correct me if I'm wrong) that would tend to cause the symbiotic zooxlanthe to be starved out, leaving the coral starved and thus bleaching. You want to maintain a food/light balance point.

    Then again, I could be talking out of by rear. But it sounds pretty good, doesn't it?
     
  4. Mar 19, 2012 #24
    Reeferforlyfe

    Reeferforlyfe Inactive User

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    Thanks, bud! I like the look of a blue tank anyways. Only prob is I don't know how to program it that way. Jeremy (Waverz) has been programming it for me, and he's super busy ATM, so I just dropped the lights to 35% until he has some time. /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default//emoticons/sad.gif
     
  5. Mar 19, 2012 #25
    Reeferforlyfe

    Reeferforlyfe Inactive User

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    Way to call that one. What is RTN
     
  6. Mar 19, 2012 #26
    Reeferforlyfe

    Reeferforlyfe Inactive User

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    Rapid Tissue Necrosis. How do I prevent this from happening in the future?
     
  7. Mar 19, 2012 #27
    Tholton33

    Tholton33 Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    Do you have a AI controller I would just run that for a while and adjust the lights that way.
     
  8. Mar 19, 2012 #28
    PotRoast

    PotRoast Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    Does 35% seem to low to anyone else?

    I started my frag tank at 50% and ramped it up 5% every two weeks until I hit 80% and now I don't know what to do.

    Also, RTN, you can't really prevent it. Just keep your water parameters as stable as possible.
     
  9. Mar 19, 2012 #29
    PotRoast

    PotRoast Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    also I don't want to start a huge discussion here but I do not trust your method of using RODI water to calibrate your refractometer. I used to use RODI water until I bought the 35 ms calibration solution. I found the RODI water gave me an error reading. The problem is you can't read below zero. At 35 ms you can test above and below. Anyways my point is maybe your refractometer is reading off and your slainity is whack.

     
  10. Mar 19, 2012 #30
    Nik Windsor Heights

    Nik Experienced Reefkeeper

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    It all demends on your tank size. I had 3 on the tank at smouse (100G cube) with the light 18-24 inches above the water. I started ramping up very slowly from 30% to 45% and started to burn stuff. I took 1 light off and am still at only 48%.
     
  11. Mar 19, 2012 #31
    Bud West Des Moines, IA

    Bud Loves Bacon Website Team Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member Vendor

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    I used to use RO/DI to calibrate my refractometer too. I went ahead and bought a bottle of the BRS 35 ppt solution and started using that and I found that I was a little off. Not drastically, but it was definitely the right move to switch to that stuff.
     
  12. Mar 19, 2012 #32
    Reeferforlyfe

    Reeferforlyfe Inactive User

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    No AI controller, just the Apex
     
  13. Mar 19, 2012 #33
    Reeferforlyfe

    Reeferforlyfe Inactive User

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    I have a hydrometer that I will use to double check. I know hydrometers suck, but it's my only option at this point until I get some testing solution.

    I have a 180 gallon 24 wide 72 long 24 deep. 5 AI modules 8 inches above the water.
     
  14. Mar 19, 2012 #34
    Reeferforlyfe

    Reeferforlyfe Inactive User

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    So here are some pictures of my corals.....
    Hawkins blue.. [​IMG]" src="%3Ca%20href=%22http://s1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj525/musbtr1pin/?action=view&current=IMGP0617-1.jpg%22%20target=%22_blank%22%3E%3Cimg%20src=%22http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj525/musbtr1pin/IMGP0617-1.jpg%22%20border=%220%22%20alt=%22Photobucket%22%3E%3C/a%3E">
    Green Ora Birdnest I believe?
    [​IMG]" src="%3Ca%20href=%22http://s1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj525/musbtr1pin/?action=view&current=IMGP0619-1.jpg%22%20target=%22_blank%22%3E%3Cimg%20src=%22http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj525/musbtr1pin/IMGP0619-1.jpg%22%20border=%220%22%20alt=%22Photobucket%22%3E%3C/a%3E">
    Not sure exactly what this is, Got it at ACC and I LOVE IT, gotta save it before it bites the dust!
    [​IMG]" src="%3Ca%20href=%22http://s1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj525/musbtr1pin/?action=view&current=IMGP0616-1.jpg%22%20target=%22_blank%22%3E%3Cimg%20src=%22http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj525/musbtr1pin/IMGP0616-1.jpg%22%20border=%220%22%20alt=%22Photobucket%22%3E%3C/a%3E">
     
  15. Mar 19, 2012 #35
    Reeferforlyfe

    Reeferforlyfe Inactive User

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    Also I double checked my salinity with my refractometer and my hydrometer and they both read 1.025... Coincidence? I think it safe to say Salinity is outta the question... I will order some BRS solution soon, but i don't see the need...
     
  16. Mar 19, 2012 #36
    mthomp

    mthomp Inactive User

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    heres your problem I feel.  3 AIs 12 inchs above the water would of been more then plenty imo. you are burning your corals.
     
  17. Mar 19, 2012 #37
    Reeferforlyfe

    Reeferforlyfe Inactive User

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    I can't put em 12 inches above the water do to some ductwork for the house. I'm screwed
     
  18. Mar 19, 2012 #38
    awinstead

    awinstead

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    Dang that sucks, I believe most people run them 12-15 inches when possible. I don't recall if you started with LED or switched to them . Maybe just run 4 until things get acclimated and drop your intensity. I think a lot of people underestimate LED’s and burn and bleach corals. I run 3 on my 125 and started to bleach a few things so cut back, everything seem good now and I will be adding a fourth and final unit this week.
     
  19. Mar 19, 2012 #39
    Reeferforlyfe

    Reeferforlyfe Inactive User

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    I originally started with MH, and switched to LEDs. Energy savings and bulb life made me switch. My stand is almost 4 ft to the bottom of my tank, I made it this tall because I'm 6'4" so didn't want to "look down" at my tank. Really cut my clearance short doing this. Fml
     
  20. Mar 19, 2012 #40
    Reeferforlyfe

    Reeferforlyfe Inactive User

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    I raised the height another inch and a half, I can go another inch, but I don't have any wood to prop em up on.
     
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