Whats a good controller

HUGE fan of the Apex! Great support, endless possibilities, hard to beat.

 

Their both good i had a apex and sold it because i had a issue with customer support. One thing abought buying a apex is the fact that alot of people on girs have them. Their are alot of members out their that can help you with setup or any questions. I have just a basic reefkeeper and like it alot better than my apex. I guess it just comes down to personal choice

 

One last thing i forgot to mention is i think apex has alot more options than the reefkeeper. More expandability.

 

I'm using an RKE and I like it for the most part.  The learning curve wasn't too bad, but I did run into a few quirks along the way.  The longer I use it, the more it grows on me.  I would agree that there are some limitations on what it can do, but sometimes you can be creative in programming it to get what you want.  I've turned to help on the Digital Aquatics forum and also contacted DA tech support.  I've had good experiences with both.
All that being said, I don't know that its better or worse than other controllers.  I certainly would like to take some others for a test drive someday, especially the Apex since it seems to be fairly popular around here.

 

That is what i use for my metal hay lights. they work awesome and there cheap.

 

I've also been looking at controllers but, frankly, I'm lost!/DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/crazy.gif  Do the modules plug into the energy bar?  With the Apex, what is the Direct Connet 8?  What is an AquaBus Cable?  What is the l/0 Breakout Box?  What is the 5' Minidin 8 l/0 Cable?  What extra (basic) components does one need to buy right when ordering the Apex besides the salinity probe?...does one need to buy the PM2 or just the salinity probe or it the PM2 the salinity probe plus the l/0 expansion Box?  See I told you I was lost!/DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/unsure.gif

 

A standard APEX kit comes with the base module, a display, and an EB8 along with a temp probe.  People usually get the PH probe right away as well.
The Direct Connect is used with the AC3 not the apex.
You buy extra modules to do extra things.  Like controlling your AI lights, or your ecotech pumps, and so on.
You would need an extra module & probe for salinity.  Most people dont used that one.
A break out box is if you want to get fancy with advanced stuff, again most people dont use them.
You connect the modules and EB8's with cables.  Right now we run the whole entire store off one APEX.  That is about 10 seperate systems, calcium reactors, lights, temp, and so on.
The expandability is almost limitless

 

I want to clarify a few things that have been mentioned in this thread:
I've heard both positive and negative things about both Digital Aquatics and Neptune Systems.  The fact is, I'm using Neptune Systems because my original interaction with Digital Aquatics (I was trying to purchase a RKE) was negative.  They promised me a discount, then when I called in to order, they told me that I couldn't have it.  I told them to take their RKE and .... well ... end result was me buying a used AC3 from Reef Central and I've been a Neptune Systems fan ever since.
I've never purchased a new controller.  I've purchased all of mine used.  You roll the dice a bit, but you can save some money that way. 
If anyone is interested in seeing the interface on an AC3 or an Apex, let me know and we can set up a time where I can show you the interface for my AC3 and Apex.  You can see the programming, etc.  Probably a Skype/WebEx type scenario.
Controllers are good if you want to do something more than turn something on or off at a certain time.  They can respond to a situation.  Many people fail to get the most out of their controllers because they don't know how to properly configure them and are afraid to ask for help.  I can tell you that if someone posts a thread clearly indicating what they want to do with their controller, people will help you accomplish what you want to do.  Alerting and real-time response to a situation are not possible with a standard timer.
Direct Connect refers to the data connection that the AC3 generation of controllers used to connect the outlets and expansion modules to the base controller.  The physical connection is a standard 4-wire telephone cable.  Direct Connect is compatible with the Apex, but I wouldn't recommend using it just because it's harder to use (you have to do a lot more manual configuration) and it doesn't have as many features.  Like putting low grade gas into a high end Mercedes.  Some things, you just don't do.  Yes, the car will run, but probably not as good.
AquaBus refers to the data connection used by the Apex generation of devices.  Like Direct Connect, AquaBus is not something that you see, it's a data connection.  The AquaBus travels from the controller to the various modules using USB cables.  While the connection is a standard USB  connection, it shouldn't be hooked
it to your PC under any circumstances.  I believe that it runs at twice
the power of standard USB).  Basically the USB is the physical connection
between the devices, and the AquaBus is the communication channel that
travels over those cables. 

A breakout box is basically a device that allows your controller to
determine the state of a circuit.  The breakout box is connected to the controller using a Mini-DIN 8 cable.  Each breakout box has 6 circuits on
it.  A circuit can either be open/closed like a light switch is on/off. 
Basically, you hook devices to the breakout box that will either break
the circuit (open it) or connect the circuit (close it).  Your Apex will
then detect the state of these circuits and you can write programming
to respond to the state of the circuit. 
The salinity probe is an expensive add-on.  It requires an expensive probe ($100+) and a PM2 module.  Many people don't use it because of the expense.
An example of something that you would connect to a breakout box is a
float switch.  Water goes up and the float either opens or closes the
circuit (depending on how the float is configured).  The Apex sees the
change in circuit state and responds according your programming.

Like Craig indicated, many people don't use the Breakout boxes, but then other people use multiple breakout boxes.
I wouldn't run a reef tank without a controller.  The amount of money that you put into your fish and corals...it's a small bit of insurance that gives me peace of mind.
--AJ

 

Thanks Craig and AJ for the input.  Maybe I should just list what I want in a controller and what I'm using and plan on adding in the future/DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/smile.gif 
I have 2 MP40wES and later this week I will be getting an MP60wES/DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/biggrin.gif  Although the pumps are easily used/programmed, having the ability to program/change it through the computer(or a phone?) would be nice.
I have a Tunze 3155 Osmolator topoff system. 
I run 3 reactors (GAC, GFO & Biopellets) and will in the future need a couple dosing pumps for CA and Alk.
This coming Spring I will be getting a new lighting system.  I'm not sure what I will be getting but it will either be LED's (probably AI's) or T5's.  I'm tired of fighting the temperature with the MH's and hate the CF's!/DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/ermm.gif
I have 4 fans I run in the canopy.
Of course there's a heater and skimmer./DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/smile.gif
Maybe you can tell me which Apex or RK would be adequate for me.  Being old school, I'm not hi-tech and don't need to be.  What I'm looking for is safety (no stuck heaters, minimal temperature fluctuation,etc), ease of use(so I can enjoy the tank/DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/biggrin.gif), the ability to know how the system is running (temp,etc) and to only get what I'll use(cost effectiveness)...because I'm not getting any younger/DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/whistling.gif, someday I will either downsize or get a tank where I won't have to climb on a ladder!/DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/w00t.gif


Thanks for your help!!

 

Now that I've got all the programming worked out in, I love my Apex! Being able to check the status of my tank via my phone or internet is soooooo nice.

 

I have been using a RKL for the past year. Not thrilled with it, I have had a few minor issues, updating the firmware broke it once. I thought support was avg at best. I was thinking about trying a Reef Angle, anyone use them? I like the idea of programing everything myself.

 

About the Ecotech pumps, I don't control them with my phone.  I have a schedule that they run on and they switch modes throughout the day.  During the night, they run a ReefCrest mode from 10% to 50% max intensity.  During the day, they run ReefCrest 40% to 100% intensity.  When the "auto-feed mode" comes on, they go to 5% constant, and then for a half hour a day, they switch to 100% to stir up any detritus that may have settled....at least that's the idea.  The bottom still collects a lot of crap.  That's how I use my Apex to control my Vortechs.
Keep in mind, that there are some things that you don't need to control.  For example, your ATO, it's probably OK just being on constant power unless you have some kind of a fancy auto-water change routine where you want to have it powered off.
Heaters & fans are no problem.  I would actually recommend chaining your 4 fans off of a single outlet and controlling them as one.  As for no stuck heaters, you have to remember that you're just as likely to loose a temp probe as you are a thermostat on a heater.  I run two temp probes.  One in my frag tank (with a heater in there) and one in my sump (with heaters in there).  All heaters are set to 78 degrees max so if my temp probe goes bad, hopefully me thermostats on the heaters have not also gone bad...  Hopefully I will be able to see a variance between the two temp probes and check things out (when a temp probe goes bad, you typically see wild temp swings).  Also, a min temp and max temp alert should also help to point out when something is wrong. 
pH probe will help you determine something like a dosing pump or CO2 solenoid on your calcium reactor that's gone bad and an ORP probe is usually a general indicator of water quality.  If your ORP suddenly drops, start looking for something dead in your tank.
Anyway, effective controller usage is all about effective configuration, knowing what to check when something looks off, and alerting.  But even with all this automation in place, remember that you're making your controller a single point of failure.  Think through all of the different scenarios on what could happen if your controller failed or something like that.
It's not if something is going to fail, it's when.  If you plan for a failure, then you'll be better equipped to handle it when it happens.
--AJ

 

My favorite part of having a controller is the ability to be notified via text incase of an emergency. My home tank is in the living room which is carpeted, it would be hard for my tank to actually flood but it has happened and I was notified as soon as a drop of water hit the cabinet floor due to my flood detectors that are hooked up to the Apex.

Being able to be notified if the power is out is an awesome feature too!


I would never run a tank w/o a controller with the ability to notify me incase of failure again.

 

Its so cool! I don't have a tank anymore and Its still hard to sell it. I could set it up to run my X-mas Light