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Where to Drill Overflow Bulkhead

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Justin S., Jun 8, 2014.

  1. Justin S. Well-Known ReefKeeper

    436
    Pleasant Hill
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    I'm sure some of you have some experience on this topic, I only get one shot so I want to make sure it logical, structurally sound, and thus will be happy with where its at! Will drill this evening!
     
  2. blackx-runner Administrator Website Team Leadership Team

    Cedar Rapids, IA
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    +738 / 5 / -0

    Do you have an overflow box you're installing, or are you just using something like a PVC elbow out of the bulkhead? Depending on how you chose to do the overflow can change your hole position.
     
  3. Justin S. Well-Known ReefKeeper

    436
    Pleasant Hill
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    It's an elbow out of the bulkhead, no overflow box. Knowing this, what thoughts have you in mind on where I should drill the hole? Hole will be 1.5" diameter.



     
  4. Zach Well-Known ReefKeeper

    605
    Coralville, Iowa
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    inch and a half is a HUGE hole. I have a 1 inch on a 40 that cycles 700 gph with plenty of overhead to spare. With that being said what kinda tank is this going into?

    With that being said some drilling basics are as follows:

    Avoid drilling in the bottom of the tank, it is often tempered glass. Additionally, the water weight on the bottom is significantly higher than on the sides of a tank
     
    Micro fractures always occur anytime glass is cut or drilled, and the hole reduces the structural and tensile strength of the glass.  While aquariums are generally engineered to be much stronger than actually needed for their capacity, the bottom is the "weakest link" and is best avoided.

    Always Drill at least 1" from the edges or corners of the glass:  All glass contains minor imperfections and flaws and again, micro fractures occur along the edge of glass when it is cut.  To avoid placing any additional stress on these weak spots, try staying at least 1" away from any glass edge.

    and remember that the force of the water against the glass is greater at the bottom of the tank than at the top. Try to make all drilled holes near the top of the glass sides where less pressure is exerted.


     
  5. Justin S. Well-Known ReefKeeper

    436
    Pleasant Hill
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    It's acrylic :p
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 24, 2015
  6. Zach Well-Known ReefKeeper

    605
    Coralville, Iowa
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    +21 / 0 / -0
    Same concept applies, physics is physics with regards to fluid dynamics. Obviously not going tonus a diamond drill bit though.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 24, 2015
  7. Zach Well-Known ReefKeeper

    605
    Coralville, Iowa
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    Sent too soon. You will want to use a carbide or wood hole saw, and go slow.you want to scrape layers away and not melt it.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 24, 2015
  8. Justin S. Well-Known ReefKeeper

    436
    Pleasant Hill
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    Have anybody heard about using MAP gas to heat treat acrylic edges to stop cracks from forming?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 24, 2015
  9. Zach Well-Known ReefKeeper

    605
    Coralville, Iowa
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    The crackling on the edges as in crazing? Cloudy spidering to the seams? Map gas is a big nono. Burns way to hot. I use propane mini torch for all of my acrylic ato holders and any custom work I need to do.

    The splitting of a seam is a bit different though. Heating it up may force a bit of a bond. But chances are you are going to make the joint more brittle by heating it up. Acrylic is not glued together so much as it is welded chemicaly. You would probably be better off trying to reseal it with a bonding agent. Weldon would be a good start.

    I would like to note I have limited experience with aged acrylic. Most of what I have worked with has been new
    And I retuned my sumps with some simple cyanoacrylate.
     
  10. Justin S. Well-Known ReefKeeper

    436
    Pleasant Hill
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    Your advice to use propane sounds to be logical for newly cut acrylic edges. As for splitting seams I do not have anything of that sort going on anyplace. Throughout my sump construction I got away with not having to weld and important structural elements of acrylic pieces together, rather I've planned out my design to utilize nylon bolts and nuts instead. I only welded one acrylic seam in its construction due to the long dry time of the product I had in hand. I really sought after weld-on #3 from the start because it would set so quick and allow me to along, but when I couldn't find it in a nearby store, I went to Country Plastics in Ames and settled for what they recomended me: another brands equivlent to weld-on #4.. which is why I relied heavily on nylon bolts through layered acrylic pieces rather than on welding acrylic corner joints for support.


    Except for the first baffle which I secured with silicone and due to construction with nylon bolts, all frameworking of my sump setup can be removed, reconfigured, adjusted, modified, or replaced.


    All of concern lies with the integrity of the numerous holes I have drilled in the acrylic with hole saws.


    As far as my holes in the acrylic pieces of my sump: there are a few pieces that exhibit the beginings of spidery splitting radiating from the edges of the hole. For these cases should I give the spidery hole edges a surface touch of acrylic solevant weld solution rather than heat treat them?
     
  11. Zach Well-Known ReefKeeper

    605
    Coralville, Iowa
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    That sounds like crazing from the drilling. the question is going to be how close to the top of the tank they are. I guess the best test aside from extensive calculations would be to fill it up in the front yard and pray. The crazing could be surface splitting from drilling too fast, and could be innocuous. Or it could be pressure shearing and splitting from the bolts. Which could result in catastrophic failure. It all depends...

    I have no solid answer for ya. Maybe take a pic?
     

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