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Zoa eating Nudibranch

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Crystal formerly swcrys, Jun 2, 2014.

  1. Crystal formerly swcrys

    Crystal formerly swcrys Inactive User

    279
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    I purchased some new zoa's at springfest. It was a good sized colony. Anyway I started noticing they were disappearing. But couldn't figure out what the issue was. Well they are now about half gone but are now open and getting better. Then I noticed one of the my other smaller colonies I had already had for a long time was all closed up. Everything else has been fine in my tank. I had no clue what was going on. Till the other night I found a Nudibranch on the glass of the tank. So I immediatly looked over my zoas that had been closed up and sure enough there were more. I pulled them thankfully they are on a smaller square, dipped it in fw for about 5 mins then shook it and there were alot of the darn things. I think there were about 4 adults and about a billion babies. I found one sac of eggs which i manually scraped off one of the zoas. I then dipped the colony in ro water for about another 5 mins then put back in my DT. Zoas were already starting to open back up last night. Hoping more are open again today. My question is to those who have delt with Nudi's before and won. What did you do to totally get rid of these little buggers?? How many days should I wait to dip again. I just want to be sure I got them all and get any eggs after they hatch as I know the fw dip is not effective on the eggs. TIA
     
  2. Zach Well-Known ReefKeeper

    605
    Coralville, Iowa
    Ratings:
    +21 / 0 / -0

    Are you feeling Wrassie or like playing with tweezers?


    Yellow coris wrasse, melanarus wrasse, and some other wrasses will eat them. Otherwise manual removal, and chemical. I have yet to see a real solid 100% removal tool for them.


    For zoa eating nudi's a fresh water dip will kill them as well as an Iodine dip. As always with the fresh water dip make sure the temp and PH are the same as your saltwater to keep stress low and dip quick.





    See if you can't Ident them. It often can help to know what you are fighting.





    http://www.rzuser.uni-heidelberg.de/~bu6/slugsite.html
     
  3. Crystal formerly swcrys

    Crystal formerly swcrys Inactive User

    279
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    I've read and been told by another person that Wrasse will help. But also not sure they will actually eat them either. This is in my newer set up and I haven't put all of the fish in that I would like to get yet either. Generally speaking shouldn't wrasses be last to be added?? Also all my zoa colony's are thankfully small and easy to pull out and dip. I did use fw that was the same temp as my tank. As for PH I did not check that. But my zoas looked fine last night and were starting to open back up after only a few hours of the dip. None of my other zoas seem to be closing up like this one was. So keeping my fingers crossed they were only eatting away at this one colony...
     
  4. Zach Well-Known ReefKeeper

    605
    Coralville, Iowa
    Ratings:
    +21 / 0 / -0
    Depending on the type of wrasse is when they should be added. A yellow Coris is similar in temperament to a Lubbock and are usually pretty peaceful. Where a sixline or various other fairies can be punks from time to time and should certainly be added last. As always this is conjecture and based on anecdotal evidence from my readings talks and personal experiences. I have a Chromis that runs my 75, so not all fish personalities are the same, as we well know.

    Zoas are... hardy let's say. I have had rocks submerged in 100% h2o2 for 10 minute periods, and had zoas pulp back out on them after the dip within days that were completely melted brown and burnt. They can be really resilient.

    There is a good chance that the invasion was localized, but to be sure you may want to watch the others after you pull the main one being eaten out. The Nudi's will go where food is. Your best bet would be to QT the corals for the time being and let them die out of the main DT. This can take some time as they often are very hardy and will last a good while without food (but not forever!)

    This is under the assumption that you have a QT system.

     
  5. Crystal formerly swcrys

    Crystal formerly swcrys Inactive User

    279
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    +0 / 0 / -0
    as far as which one they most look like in the link you provided above would be the first one Flabellina affinis.
     
  6. Sponge Expert Reefkeeper Vendor

    Marshalltown, IA
    Ratings:
    +233 / 1 / -0
    http://www.saltyunderground.com/article_info.php?articles_id=51

     

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